Sighetu Marmației & Maramureș

Northern Romania's heartland of folk tradition, with the painted Merry Cemetery, UNESCO-listed wooden churches, a forest steam railway and a traditional rural way of life.

Maramureș lies at the very north of Romania, bordered to the north by the Tisza River and Ukraine and encircled by the Carpathian Mountains. It is one of the best-preserved traditional farming regions in Europe: carved wooden gates, haystacks, horse carts and villagers in folk dress on their way to church on Sundays are still everywhere. Sighetu Marmației (Sighet), the historic regional centre, is the most convenient base, home to the Memorial of the Victims of Communism, the Maramureș Village Museum and the house of Nobel Peace Prize laureate Elie Wiesel. There are three main routes. The western route follows the Tisza to Săpânța for the painted Merry Cemetery and Peri Monastery, with the world's tallest wooden church. The central-southern route runs along the Iza Valley to Bârsana Monastery and the UNESCO-listed wooden churches of Ieud, Poienile Izei, Budești and Desești, with guesthouse stays in traditional villages such as Breb. The eastern route leads to Vișeu de Sus to ride the forest steam train through the Vaser Valley, then on to the Horses' Waterfall near Borșa and the Rodna Mountains. Further south, the wooden churches of Șurdești, Plopiș and Rogoz and Rohia Monastery form part of the Maramureș wooden church circuit, about 50–65 km from Sighet. The best season is May to October, when the steam train runs and the meadows and haystacks are at their most beautiful; in late December there is a winter folk festival with Christmas carols and masked parades. Getting there: drive or take a bus from Cluj-Napoca or Baia Mare; Sighet has an overnight train to Bucharest. Rural public transport is sparse, so a car or private driver is strongly recommended; allow 3–4 days. Note: most wooden churches are locked on weekdays, so contact the village caretaker or priest to have them opened; dress modestly and leave a small donation.

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