Si Phan Don (4000 Islands)

Where the Mekong scatters into countless islets near the Laos–Cambodia border: hammock life on Don Det and Don Khon, Khone Phapheng Falls and Irrawaddy dolphins.

Si Phan Don (the 4000 Islands) lies in Khong District, Champasak Province, at the southern tip of Laos. Near the Cambodian border the Mekong spreads to about 14 km wide, and in the dry season hundreds upon hundreds of islets and sandbars emerge from the river, giving the area its name. Visitors mainly stay on three inhabited islands: Don Det, a backpacker hub lined with hammocks and bamboo bungalows; quieter Don Khon, linked to Don Det by a railway bridge; and Don Khong, the largest and most rural. Highlights include Khone Phapheng Falls, the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia, Li Phi Falls, the French colonial-era railway bridge and old steam locomotive, the critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphins in a deep pool at the southern end, and the slow life of cycling through rice fields and watching the sunset from a riverside hammock. The best season is November to February, cool and dry; March–May is scorching, reaching 38°C; June–October is the rainy season, when the waterfalls are at their fullest but some dirt roads get muddy. Getting there: from Pakse, take a minibus for about 3 hours to Nakasang pier, then a small boat to the islands; from Cambodia, enter via the Nong Nok Khiene/Trapeang Kriel border crossing. There are no cars on the islands, and bicycles are the main way to get around. A stay of 2–4 days is recommended. Note: ATMs are scarce on the islands, so bring cash; a pass is required to enter Don Khon; the Mekong's currents are strong, so do not swim near the falls.

Top sights

• Don Det – The liveliest backpacker island in Si Phan Don, with hammocks and bamboo huts by the river, sunrise on the east shore and sunset on the wes…
• Khone Phapheng Falls – The largest waterfall in Southeast Asia, where the Mekong breaks into a wide series of rapids and cascades. This natural barrier is why the…
• Li Phi Falls (Tat Somphamit) – A cluster of rapids on the west side of Don Khon. Legend says they can sweep away 'ghosts,' and fishermen set bamboo traps in the rushing w…
• Don Khon – A quieter neighbor of Don Det, home to French colonial remains, Li Phi Falls and a dolphin-watching point at its southern tip.
• Irrawaddy Dolphin Pool (Hang Khon) – A deep pool reached by longtail boat from the southern tip of Don Khon, near the Laos–Cambodia border, where you can spot the critically en…
• Don Det–Don Khon Railway Bridge – Remnants of Laos's first railway: a French-built arch bridge from the 1910s linking Don Det and Don Khon, where you can watch the Mekong su…
• Old Steam Locomotive of Don Khon – The remains of a French colonial-era narrow-gauge steam locomotive parked at the southern tip of Don Khon, a reminder of Laos's only centur…
• Khone Pasoi Falls – A broad cascading rapid on the east side of Don Khon, rarely visited, with a wooden suspension bridge and local fishermen casting nets. It…
• Wat Khon Tai – A Buddhist temple on the west side of Don Khon, built on the site of a Khmer-era monument, with stone remains from the Angkor period visibl…
• Don Khong – The largest island in the Four Thousand Islands, with the quiet, unpretentious county town of Muang Khong. It is ideal for cycling past ric…
• Ban Nakasang – The mainland ferry town for Don Det and Don Khon, where the morning market offers Mekong fish, local produce and snacks.

Where to eat

• Mama Leuah Restaurant – A riverside guesthouse restaurant on the sunrise side of Don Det, serving Lao dishes alongside homestyle German fare. I…
• Kea's Backpackers Paradise Bar – A backpacker bar-restaurant in the village at the north end of Don Det, known for curries, fish and chips and plenty of…

Itineraries

• Southern Laos: Bolaven Plateau, Wat Phou & 4,000 Islands – Starting from Pakse, this itinerary connects the Bolaven waterfalls, Wat Phou, and the 4,000 Islands, before returning…
• Southern Laos along the Mekong to Angkor – Travel overland from Pakse through the 4,000 Islands into Cambodia, passing Kratie and Kampong Thom to Siem Reap.
• Laos North-to-South Mekong Traverse – Travel all the way south from Luang Prabang, passing through Vang Vieng, the Thakhek Loop, and Pakse, before ending in…