Shymkent

A major city in southern Kazakhstan near ancient Sayram, the Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve and Aksu Canyon, easily combined with a trip to Turkistan.

Shymkent is Kazakhstan's third-largest city and the gateway to the south, set on an oasis plain at the northern foot of the Western Tien Shan, about 120 km northeast of Tashkent in Uzbekistan. A key stop on the ancient Silk Road, it has a large ethnic Uzbek population, and its food and bazaars feel closer to those of Central Asia's oasis cities; it's known for its warmth, bustle and great food.

The heart of the city is the area around the Citadel, Ordabasy Square and Independence Park, which you can cover on foot in half a day, adding the regional museum, the Museum of Victims of Political Repression, Central Park and Ethnopark; the zoo and arboretum are in the north of the city. About 15 km east, the ancient town of Sayram preserves the Ibrahim Ata Mausoleum, the Karashash Ana Mausoleum and the Khizr Minaret, and is one of Kazakhstan's oldest towns. To the south and east lie Sayram-Ugam National Park and the Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve, part of the Western Tien Shan World Heritage site; Aksu Canyon, Kaskasu Gorge and Mount Kazygurt all make good day trips.

The best times to visit are April–June and September–October: wild tulips bloom in the mountains in spring, and autumn brings an abundance of melons and fruit; in July and August the city often tops 35°C, while winters are mild with little snow. Shymkent Airport has flights to Almaty, Astana, Istanbul and elsewhere, and trains run toward Turkistan, Almaty and Tashkent. Taxis in town are cheap; hiring a car with driver is recommended for sights outside the city.

Plan on 2–3 days: one day for the city and Sayram, one for Aksu Canyon and the reserve, plus an optional day trip to Turkistan, about 160 km away. Russian is widely spoken, English less so; entering the reserve requires a ticket and a guide, and dress modestly when visiting mosques and mausoleums.

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