Shizuoka

Tokugawa Ieyasu's retirement seat, with views of Mount Fuji across the bay from Nihondaira and Miho no Matsubara, plus Kunōzan Tōshōgū, Shimizu Port tuna, the Ōigawa Railway steam train and the Sumatakyo suspension bridge.

Shizuoka City is the capital of Shizuoka Prefecture, located southwest of Mount Fuji and facing Suruga Bay. It's made up of Aoi Ward in the city center, Suruga Ward and Shimizu Ward, where the port is located, with the Southern Alps rising to the north. Tokugawa Ieyasu spent both his youth and his final years in Sunpu (present-day Shizuoka), and the city retains Tokugawa sites such as Sunpu Castle, Shizuoka Sengen Shrine and Kunōzan Tōshōgū. The climate is mild, with almost no snow in winter; in autumn and winter (Oct–Feb) the air is crystal clear, the best time to view Mount Fuji from Nihondaira, Miho no Matsubara and Satta Pass. Apr–May is new tea season, and autumn colors peak at Sumatakyo and Oku-Ōi in early November. The area divides into three parts: in the city center, Sunpu Castle Park and Sengen Shrine are within walking distance, and in the evening you can eat Shizuoka oden on Aoba Oden Street; to the southeast, take the ropeway from Nihondaira down to Kunōzan Tōshōgū, and in winter and spring pick ishigaki strawberries at the foot of the mountain; Shimizu Ward has tuna at Kashi no Ichi market, S-Pulse Dream Plaza (with Chibi Maruko-chan Land), Miho no Matsubara and Satta Pass with its Fuji views. To the west, around Shimada and Kawane, you can visit Hōrai Bridge, the Ōigawa Railway steam train, Okuōikojō Station on the lake and Sumatakyo's Yume no Tsuribashi ("Dream Suspension Bridge"); it's a long trip, best given its own day (or an overnight stay at Sumatakyo Onsen). Getting there: the Tokaido Shinkansen reaches Shizuoka Station in about 1 hour from Tokyo and about 50 minutes from Nagoya (few Hikari trains stop here; most are Kodama), and Shimizu is about 10 minutes away on the JR Tokaido Line; Nihondaira and Miho are served by bus, though driving is more convenient. Plan on 2–3 days. Tips: Mount Fuji is often hidden by clouds, and visibility is poor in summer; parts of the Ōigawa Railway are suspended due to disaster damage, so check the official website before you go.

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Where to eat