Shitai

The primeval forest of Guniujiang, the "Western Huangshan" of southern Anhui, pairs with the Qiupu River from Li Bai's poems, while Dashan selenium-rich village, Xianyu Mountain's ancient Huizhou road and a cluster of karst caves make this an off-the-beaten-path mountain retreat.

Shitai & Guniujiang is in Shitai County, Chizhou, Anhui, deep in the mountains of southern Anhui between Huangshan, Mount Jiuhua and Taiping Lake. It bills itself as "China's most beautiful unspoiled mountain county"; the county town is about 45 km from Mount Jiuhua and about 70 km from Huangshan. The main scenery falls along three routes. The southern route is the Guniujiang National Nature Reserve, historically called the "Western Huangshan": from the Longmen Scenic Area at the north gate, follow the stream to the four-tiered waterfall and Longmen Pool, and stay overnight in Yanjia Old Village at the foot of the mountain. The southwestern route covers the ancient Huizhou road over Jugenling on Xianyu Mountain and Dashan selenium-rich village, whose tea gardens, longevity village and guesthouses are ideal for a slow summer stay. Around the county town are the Qiupu River that Li Bai visited five times (fishing-village rafting, Baizhang Cliff), rafting at Hengdu Guaitan, Penglai Fairy Cave, Zuishanye Canyon, and Yulong Cave in the east near Taiping Lake. Best seasons: alpine azaleas and new tea in April–May, stream rafting to beat the heat in June–August, and autumn colors along the Qiupu River and in the old villages in October–November. Getting there: the Jinan–Qimen Expressway has a Shitai exit, so driving is easiest; alternatively, take the high-speed train to Chizhou or Huangshan North and transfer to a bus. Suggested 2–3 days: day 1 for the caves and the Qiupu River around town, day 2 for Guniujiang, day 3 for Xianyu Mountain and Dashan Village. Note: mountain roads are full of hairpin bends, so watch for rockfalls and rising water in the rainy season; rafting depends on water levels, and tickets and opening hours are subject to the scenic areas' official announcements.

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