Shimla

The summer capital of British India, with colonial buildings lining the Mall Road; ride the UNESCO-listed Kalka–Shimla narrow-gauge railway up the mountain and set out from here on the Spiti circuit.

Shimla, the capital of the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, sits on a ridge at about 2,200 m in the outer Himalayas. From 1864 it was the summer capital of British India, with the entire colonial government moving here every summer to escape the heat. The city spreads in tiers along the hillside, and its colonial-era Tudor and Neo-Gothic buildings cluster along the car-free Mall Road and The Ridge, making it one of India's most popular hill stations. The core of town can be explored on foot: The Ridge and Christ Church, Scandal Point and the Gaiety Theatre, Lakkar Bazaar, and the Jakhoo Hanuman Temple (reachable by ropeway); the Viceregal Lodge and the State Museum on the west side of town require transport. Day trips include horse rides and snow at Kufri, the apple orchards and golf meadows of Mashobra and Naldehra, Chail Palace and the cantonment town of Kasauli to the south, and snow-peak views from Hatu Peak at Narkanda, about 60 km northeast. The UNESCO-listed Kalka–Shimla narrow-gauge railway is an experience in itself, and Shimla is also the starting point for the Spiti Valley and Kinnaur circuit to the north. The best seasons are Mar–Jun (cool and refreshing, though May–Jun is packed with Indian tourists) and Sep–Nov (clear skies for views of the snow peaks); Dec–Feb may bring snow, lovely to see but watch for icy roads; Jul–Aug is monsoon season, with heavy rain and frequent landslides on mountain roads. Getting there: about 3–4 hours by road from Chandigarh, or change at Kalka for the toy train (about 5–6 hours); Shimla Airport has few flights, which are often affected by weather. The city is steep and the main street is car-free, so expect lots of walking; public lifts are available. Plan on 2–3 days, book accommodation ahead in peak season, and watch out for monkeys snatching belongings.

Top sights

• The Mall & The Ridge – The heart of Shimla: a colonial-era pedestrian promenade closed to vehicles, and an open square on the ridge with views of the Himalayan sn…
• Christ Church – A yellow Neo-Gothic church completed in 1857, the second-oldest church in North India and the iconic skyline landmark of Shimla.
• Viceregal Lodge (Rashtrapati Niwas) – The summer residence of the British Viceroy of India. A Scottish James I–style grey stone building, it witnessed key talks before the parti…
• Jakhoo Temple – A Hanuman temple on Shimla's highest peak, with a 33 m Hanuman statue overlooking the whole town. Reach it by cable car or on foot.
• Kalka–Shimla Railway – A narrow-gauge mountain railway opened in 1903 and designated a World Heritage Site. It climbs 96 km through 102 tunnels and more than 800…
• Scandal Point & Gaiety Theatre – A legendary corner where Ridge Square and Mall Road meet, next to an 1887 Victorian-style theatre.
• Lakkar Bazaar & Ice Skating Rink – An old street beside Ridge Square famous for hand-carved wooden crafts, with a rare natural ice rink below.
• Kali Bari Temple – A Bengali-style temple dedicated to the goddess Shyamala (Kali), from whom the name 'Shimla' is said to derive.
• Himachal State Museum – A state museum housed in a colonial villa, known for its Pahari miniature paintings, mountain deity sculptures and folk costume collections.
• Annandale & Army Heritage Museum – A flat valley floor ringed by cedars, once a horse racing and polo ground, now home to the Army Heritage Museum.
• Tara Devi Temple – An ancient goddess temple on a hilltop south of town, with a wooden shrine and wide views over the Shimla hills.
• Sankat Mochan Temple – A Hanuman temple founded by the Indian saint Neem Karoli Baba, set among pine trees with open views.
• Kufri – A high-altitude town 16 km east of Shimla where you can ride a horse or yak up Mahasu Peak; the nearest reliable snow spot in winter.
• Mashobra & The Retreat – A quiet village among apple orchards and cedar forests, where the Indian President's summer residence, The Retreat, is now open to visitors.
• Naldehra – A cedar-forest golf course loved by Lord Curzon, one of India's oldest golf courses, with grassy slopes for horse riding.
• Chail – A palace town where the Maharaja of Patiala once summered, with what is said to be the world's highest cricket ground and quiet pine forest…
• Narkanda – A mountain town about 60 km northeast of Shimla at 2,700 metres, surrounded by apple orchards and cedar forests, with a beginner ski slope…
• Hatu Peak – A peak about 7 km east of Narkanda at roughly 3,400 metres, where a wooden temple on the summit offers 360-degree views of the Himalayas.
• Tattapani – A sulphur hot-spring town on the Sutlej River, where you can soak in public baths or join river rafting trips.
• Kasauli – A tranquil colonial-era military town with an Upper and Lower Mall, an old church and a sunset point, quieter than Shimla.

Where to eat

• Indian Coffee House (Mall Road branch) – Mall Road café established in 1957, known for filter coffee and masala dosa; cheap, lively and a Shimla institution.
• Himachali Rasoi – Small Middle Bazaar eatery, one of the few places in town serving traditional Himachali food, known for its Dham vegeta…
• Wake & Bake Café – Two-storey café opposite Town Hall, run by the owner of Himachali Rasoi; brunch, crêpes and pies are popular.
• Cafe Simla Times – Terrace café in Hotel Willow Banks overlooking the valley, with wood-fired pizza and live music some evenings.

Itineraries

• Kinnaur & Spiti Valley Circuit – Enter Spiti clockwise via Kinnaur, cross Kunzum Pass to Chandratal, and finish in Manali.
• Himachal Hill Stations & Amritsar Loop – Take the toy train to Shimla, and connect Manali, Dharamshala, and Dalhousie to the Golden Temple.