Shangnan & Jinsi Gorge

A great canyon in the eastern Qinling Mountains, where Jinsi Gorge's sliver-of-sky ravines and waterfalls link up with Chuangwang Fort and Dan River rafting — and the ancient town of Jingziguan, where three provinces meet, is just next door.

Shangnan County lies in southeastern Shaanxi at the eastern tip of Shangluo, on the southern slopes of the eastern Qinling Mountains. It borders Xichuan in Henan and Yunyang in Hubei, and the Dan River cuts across it from northwest to southeast — in ancient times it was known as the place where the state of Qin ended and Chu began. The county seat is about 250 km from Xi'an. The headline attraction is Jinsi Gorge (Jinsi Grand Canyon) in the west, a national AAAAA-rated scenic area famous for its narrow sliver-of-sky ravines, cascades of waterfalls and old-growth forest. East of the county town, Chuangwang Fort is said to be where the late-Ming rebel leader Li Zicheng garrisoned his troops; together with Fushui Ancient Town and the post stations of the ancient Shang–Yu Road, it forms a cultural heritage area. Around Xianghe in the south you can go rafting on the Dan River, and just across the provincial border lies Jingziguan Ancient Town in Xichuan, Henan, where you can stand in three provinces at once — it is often combined with a visit to Shangnan. Shangnan is also one of Shaanxi's main tea-growing areas, with tea gardens blanketing the hills around Fushui and Shima.

Seasons: May–Oct is best; Jun–Aug the gorge is cool and ideal for rafting; Jinsi Gorge turns red with autumn foliage in mid-to-late October; in April the tea gardens harvest the first spring tea; in winter some of the gorge's waterfalls freeze and crowds are thin.

Getting there: the Shanghai–Shaanxi and Fuzhou–Yinchuan expressways run through the county, about 3 hours' drive from Xi'an; once the Xi'an–Shiyan high-speed railway opens you can get off at Shangnan Station. Jinsi Gorge is about 40 km from the county town, served by tourist shuttles and regular buses; for other sights, self-driving or hiring a car is recommended. Allow 2 days: one for Jinsi Gorge (about 4–5 hours' hike one way), and one for Chuangwang Fort, Jingziguan or Dan River rafting. The Jinsi Gorge trail is long, so wear non-slip shoes, and watch for rockfall and rising water in the rainy season. Local specialties include Shangnan tea, walnut buns and Shangzhi pork.

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