Serengeti

The "endless plains" and main stage of East Africa's Great Migration; stay in Seronera or at seasonal mobile camps that follow the herds.

The Serengeti lies in northern Tanzania. The national park covers about 14,800 sq km and was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981. Together with the Ngorongoro Conservation Area to the southeast and Kenya's Maasai Mara to the north, it forms a single ecosystem, through which about 1.5 million wildebeest, along with hundreds of thousands of zebra and gazelle, migrate in a continuous cycle each year. The park can be divided into several areas. In the centre, the Seronera Valley has water all year and a very high density of lions, leopards and cheetahs; it is the year-round core, with Simba Kopjes, Moru Kopjes and the hippo pool nearby. The southern short-grass plains and Lake Ndutu are the stage for the calving season from December to March, and the Gol Kopjes are known for cheetahs. The Western Corridor sees Grumeti River crossings from May to July. In the north, the Mara River near Kogatende hosts the dramatic river crossings from July to October, and Lobo in the northeast is quiet and scenic. April–May is the long rainy season, when some camps close but prices are low. Getting there: from Arusha, the drive via Ngorongoro to Naabi Hill Gate takes about 8 hours, or you can take a light aircraft for 1–1.5 hours to airstrips at Seronera, Kogatende and elsewhere. Game drives must be in a 4x4 vehicle with a licensed guide. We recommend 3–4 nights, staying at a permanent camp in the centre or a mobile camp that follows the herds, depending on the season. Notes: park fees are about US$70–83 per person per 24 hours, plus camp and vehicle fees, which must be paid in advance; do not walk alone around camp at night; bring long sleeves to guard against tsetse flies.

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