Sen Monorom (Mondulkiri)

The provincial capital of Mondulkiri, in the highlands of northeast Cambodia, with rolling grasslands, the Bousra Waterfall and an ethical elephant project. It is a cool, uncrowded base for eco-travel.

Sen Monorom is the provincial capital of Mondulkiri in northeast Cambodia. It sits on a plateau about 800 metres above sea level, with a population of under 10,000. It is surrounded by rolling bare grassy hills, pine forests and virgin jungle. The climate is much cooler than in Phnom Penh, which is why it is called the “Switzerland of Cambodia.” It is home to the Phnong people and other indigenous communities. It is also the centre of Cambodia's ethical elephant tourism.

The best season is November to March, the dry season, when the weather is cool and dry, the grasslands turn golden, and early mornings and evenings can drop to about 15°C. Waterfalls are at their fullest in September to November, just after the rains end. From May to October, the rainy season brings heavy rain, the red-earth roads become muddy, and some waterfalls are hard to reach.

There are three main types of activity. The first is elephants. The Elephant Valley Project and the Mondulkiri Project both offer forest observation tours without riding, which should be booked in advance. The second is waterfalls. The Bousra Waterfall, 40 km northeast, is a must-see. Smaller falls around town, including Sen Monorom, Romanea and Datan, can be combined into a day trip. The third is highland scenery: watching the sunset from Dok Krong Mountain, watching the sunrise over the forest viewpoints, riding a motorbike across the grassland hills, and visiting Phnong villages. Those who want to stay longer can go to the Jahoo camp in Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary to see gibbons.

Getting there: From Phnom Penh, take a bus or minibus for about 5–6 hours via Snuol. Direct buses also run from Siem Reap and Kratie. There are no taxis in town. You can rent a motorbike ($8–15 per day), hire a car with driver, or ask a motodop (motorbike taxi). Plan to stay 2–3 days.

Notes: ATMs are scarce, so bring enough cash (US dollars are widely accepted). The highlands are cold in the early morning and evening, so bring a jacket. Ride carefully during the rainy season.

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