Semuc Champey & Lanquín

A jewel of Guatemala's highlands: tiers of emerald pools atop a natural limestone bridge, plus candlelit caving and river tubing — most visitors spend two nights in Lanquín.

Semuc Champey lies in the karst mountains of Alta Verapaz in north-central Guatemala, about 10 km from the town of Lanquín. Here the Cahabón River plunges underground beneath a natural limestone bridge about 300 m long, while on top of the bridge, spring water fills a staircase of turquoise natural pools whose colour shifts between emerald green and lake blue with the light. Chinese travellers call it the "Huanglong of the Americas" after the famous terraced pools in China, and it has been protected as a national park since 1999. Highlights: in the morning, hike the steep trail (about 40 minutes) up to the El Mirador viewpoint for a panorama, then come down to swim in the pools and slide down the small cascades; just outside the park entrance, explore the K'an Ba Caves by candlelight, wading, swimming and climbing ropes; then float down the Cahabón River on an inner tube. Another highlight is the Lanquín Caves on the edge of town, where thousands of bats fly out at dusk. The best time to visit is the November–April dry season, when the pools are clearest; in the May–October rainy season, the river is often murky and the pool area occasionally closes after heavy rain. Getting there: tourist shuttles from Guatemala City or Antigua to Lanquín take about 8–10 hours, from Flores (Tikal) about 7–8 hours and from Cobán about 2–3 hours. The final 11 km from Lanquín to Semuc Champey is a steep dirt road, so you'll switch to a guesthouse 4×4 pickup (riding standing in the back). Plan two nights at a riverside lodge in Lanquín or near the park, with a full day for the pools and caves. Tips: wear shoes you can get wet for caving and leave valuables at your lodging; there are no banks and very few ATMs in the area, so bring enough quetzales in cash; the rainforest has plenty of mosquitoes, so pack insect repellent.

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