San Juan, Argentina

Capital of Argentina's second-largest wine region, with Tulum Valley wineries, water sports at Ullum Dam and the Zonda Valley, the gateway to the Valley of the Moon (Ischigualasto).

San Juan is the capital of San Juan Province in western Argentina. It sits in the Tulum Valley on the eastern foothills of the Andes, at an elevation of about 650 m, and belongs to the Cuyo wine region together with Mendoza. A major earthquake in 1944 nearly destroyed the city. It was rebuilt as a grid of wide, tree-lined streets with few old buildings but plenty of sunshine and a relaxed pace, and it is now the centre of Argentina's second-largest wine region.

Areas to explore: (1) City centre: Plaza 25 de Mayo, the cathedral bell tower, the Sarmiento House, the San Martín House, the Rosas art museum and the Bicentenario Theatre, all within walking distance. (2) Western 'lakes and canyons' loop: Zonda Canyon, Poets' Park, cave wineries, the Animal Conservation Park, Ullum Dam and the upstream Punta Negra Dam, suitable for a day by car or bike. (3) Tulum Valley wineries in the south, such as Pocito, and the Graffigna Wine Museum. (4) The Difunta Correa folk shrine, about 60 km to the east.

Climate: arid, with little rain and intense sun. September–November and March–May are the most comfortable. March brings the National Sun Festival during the grape harvest. December–February days often exceed 35°C, June–August nights are cold, and the foehn wind known as the Zonda sometimes blows.

Getting there: the airport has flights to and from Buenos Aires, and long-distance buses connect to Mendoza (about 2.5 hours). The city centre is walkable, but for sights outside town, renting a car or booking a tour is recommended. Plan 2–3 days. You can continue north for about 4 hours to Ischigualasto (Valley of the Moon), or west to the Calingasta Valley. These two usually require an overnight stay.

Top sights

Where to eat