San Ignacio

A palm oasis town with a well-preserved 18th-century stone mission, and the gateway to gray whale watching at San Ignacio Lagoon and the rock paintings of the Sierra San Francisco.

San Ignacio lies in northern Baja California Sur, in the municipality of Mulegé. It is a palm oasis in the middle of the Vizcaíno Desert, fed by underground springs, and Federal Highway 1 runs past the edge of town. The town centre is built around a stone mission completed in 1786 and a shady plaza. Life moves slowly here, which makes it a good base for exploring the surrounding nature and archaeology.

There are three main activities: (1) From winter to spring, visit San Ignacio Lagoon, about 60 km to the southwest. It is part of the World Heritage whale sanctuary and is known for its friendly gray whales. (2) Head north to the Sierra San Francisco to see the prehistoric rock murals, a World Heritage site. You can make a day trip to Cueva del Ratón and back, or ride mules for several days deep into Santa Teresa Canyon to Cueva La Pintada. (3) Stroll around the oasis, and visit the mission and the rock art museum. The route also passes the Tres Vírgenes volcanoes and their lava fields.

Climate: Desert climate. From December to April, days are mild and nights cool, making it the best season for whale watching and hiking. June to October is blazing hot, with occasional hurricane effects.

Getting there: Santa Rosalía is about 75 km away and Guerrero Negro about 140 km. Long-distance buses stop at the edge of town along Federal Highway 1. The lagoon and rock art sites, however, can only be reached by car or hired vehicle, and some roads are dirt or gravel. Plan to stay 2 to 3 days. To see the rock art, you must first register at the INAH museum in town and hire a guide. For whale watching, go with a licensed boat operator. There are few ATMs in town, so bring Mexican pesos in cash.

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