Safranbolu

The best-preserved Ottoman timber town, with World Heritage mansions, caravanserais and Turkish delight.

Safranbolu lies in Karabük Province in Turkey's Black Sea Region, about 220 km north of Ankara and about 400 km east of Istanbul, and takes its name from the saffron once grown here. From the 13th century it was an important stop on the caravan route between the Black Sea and Anatolia, and during its heyday in the 17th–19th centuries more than a thousand white-walled, timber-framed Ottoman houses were built, filling the valley tier upon tier. In 1994 the town as a whole was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is regarded as the best-preserved example of an Ottoman town.

Spring (Apr–Jun) and autumn (Sep–Oct) have the most pleasant weather; summer days are fairly hot but mornings and evenings are cool, ideal for staying in an old mansion; winter is cold, and the old town has a special charm after snowfall, though some outlying roads ice over. The old Çarşı quarter can be explored on foot: the Cinci Han caravanserai and Cinci Hamam, the artisans' lanes, the Kaymakamlar House Museum, and the clock tower and City History Museum; at dusk, climb Hıdırlık Hill to see the whole town lit up. Nearby, you can visit the glass terrace over Tokatlı Canyon and the İncekaya Aqueduct, Bulak Mencilis Cave and Yörük village, and with more time, make a day trip north to the small Black Sea town of Amasra.

Getting there: buses take about 3 hours from Ankara and about 6–7 hours from Istanbul. The bus station is in the new town of Kıranköy, about 10 minutes by minibus or taxi from the old town; you can also take the train to Karabük and change there. Stay 1–2 nights, ideally in a guesthouse in a converted mansion. Tips: the old town's cobbled streets are steep and slippery, so wear shoes with good grip; buy saffron Turkish delight and saffron tea from reputable shops, as real saffron is not cheap; public transport to outlying sights is limited, so hire a taxi or join a small local tour.

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