Rupununi
A border zone between savanna and rainforest in inland Guyana, where you can stay at community eco-lodges, walk the Iwokrama canopy walkway and see giant otters and Victoria water lilies at Karanambo.
Rupununi lies in the southwest interior of Guyana. The north is the pristine rainforest of the Iwokrama Forest Reserve, while the south is a vast tropical savanna bordering Brazil. The Rupununi, Essequibo and Burro-Burro rivers flow through the region. It is sparsely populated, home to Makushi, Wapishana and other Indigenous peoples, and several villages independently run eco-lodges. It is a treasure for South American wildlife and community tourism. You can see giant otters, black caimans, giant anteaters, arapaima, Victoria water lilies, harpy eagles and hundreds of bird species, and with luck, jaguars.
A typical loop runs from north to south: Iwokrama River Lodge (night river walks, Turtle Mountain), the Atta Lodge canopy walkway, Surama village (Surama Mountain, the Burro-Burro River), Annai, then Karanambo Lodge and the Yupukari Caiman House. For a deeper trip, you can take a boat to Rewa. Between the stops are red dirt roads, and lodges usually arrange four-wheel-drive vehicles or boat transfers. Plan 1–3 nights at each stop, and about 7–10 days for the whole route.
September to April is the dry season, when roads are in good condition and animals gather at water sources. May–August is the rainy season: the savannas flood widely, and some roads are cut off.
Getting there: domestic flights run from Georgetown to Annai or Lethem, or you can take a long-distance bus or charter car along the Linden–Lethem road, which takes more than ten hours one way. There is no independent public transport in the area, so it is best to book through lodges or local tour operators as a package. Bring insect repellent, long-sleeved clothing and trousers, a torch and cash. Mobile signal is very weak. Yellow fever vaccination is recommended, and malaria prevention is essential.
Top sights
- Iwokrama Canopy Walkway – Suspension walkways 30 metres above the rainforest canopy, where you can see toucans, cock-of-the-rock and howler monkeys up close at dawn.
- Surama Village – An eco-tourism village run by the Makushi community, with rainforest surrounding grassland. Stay in village huts and go birdwatching on foo…
- Karanambu Lodge – An old ranch on the Rupununi River turned wildlife lodge, famous for rescuing giant otters. Take a boat to see giant water lilies and searc…
- Surama Mountain – A small hill beside Surama village. Climb it at dawn for views over the Rupununi savannah and the Pakaraima Mountains.
- Burro Burro River – A rainforest river near Surama village. Drift quietly by dugout canoe in search of giant otters, caimans and kingfishers.
- Iwokrama River Lodge & Turtle Mountain – A rainforest research lodge on the Essequibo River, with boat tours by night to spot caimans and a hike up Turtle Mountain for views over u…
- Rewa Eco-Lodge – A community-run lodge where the Rewa and Rupununi rivers meet, known for catch-and-release arapaima fishing and forest views from the hills.
- Caiman House, Yupukari – A research-oriented lodge in Yupukari village where you can join researchers by boat at night to catch and tag black caimans.
- Rock View Lodge, Annai – An old ranch lodge beside the Annai airstrip, with a garden and pool to relax in and a panoramic trail for watching sunrise over the savann…
Where to eat
- Rock View Lodge Restaurant – A long-established eco-lodge beside Annai village, serving Indigenous and Creole home cooking made with produce from it…