Rügen

Germany's largest island, with the spectacular chalk cliffs of the Königsstuhl in Jasmund National Park, the elegant resort architecture of Binz, and the distinctive giant Prora complex and narrow-gauge steam railway.

Rügen lies in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania in Germany's far northeast. At about 926 km², it is the country's largest island, linked to the mainland by the Rügen Bridge at Stralsund. The coastline is deeply indented: the chalk cliffs and ancient beech forests of the Jasmund Peninsula in the northeast are a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site; along the southeast coast, a string of seaside resorts – Binz, Sellin, Baabe and Göhren – preserve their white resort architecture (Bäderarchitektur) from the late 19th and early 20th centuries; Cape Arkona at the northern tip has lighthouses and the remains of a Slavic fortress; and across the water to the west lies car-free Hiddensee.

The best time to visit is Jun–Aug, when the sea is around 17–20°C, ideal for swimming and lounging in a beach chair; May brings blooming rapeseed fields, September is quieter and cheaper, and winter is calm and cold, with many restaurants closed. Binz or Sellin makes a good base. In the south, the Rasender Roland narrow-gauge steam train links Putbus, Granitz Hunting Lodge and the seaside resorts; head north for a day at the Königsstuhl chalk cliffs and Sassnitz harbour, and another to Cape Arkona and the fishing village of Vitt. If you prefer peace and quiet, take a boat from Schaprode for a day trip to Hiddensee.

Getting there: trains from Berlin take about 3–3.5 hours to Binz (some with a change in Stralsund), and about 4 hours from Hamburg. The island has buses and the little steam train, but driving or cycling gives more flexibility for places like Cape Arkona and Jasmund; expect traffic jams getting onto the island on summer weekends. Allow 3–5 days. Things to note: the chalk cliffs in the national park are still eroding, so never go near the edge or linger at the foot of the cliffs; the seaside resorts charge a spa tax (Kurtaxe), collected with your accommodation; and in peak season, book accommodation several months ahead.

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