Rongshui

Old-growth forest on Yuanbao Mountain, Liuzhou's highest peak, rafting on the Bei River and the glass bridge at Shuanglonggou, with the strong Miao flavour of Yubu and Peixiu villages and the Lusheng and Horse-Fighting Festival.

Rongshui Miao Autonomous County lies in northern Guangxi, north of Liuzhou, bordering Qiandongnan in Guizhou. It is one of China's five Miao autonomous counties, and Miao, Yao, Dong and other ethnic minorities make up the majority of its population. The county town is about 80 km from central Liuzhou, reachable by bullet train to Rongshui Station or about an hour's drive on the Sanbei Expressway. The terrain is high in the north and low in the south: in the north, Lanping Peak, the main summit of Yuanbao Mountain, rises to 2,081 m – Liuzhou's highest point – and preserves large tracts of old-growth forest, while the Bei River winds east through the peaks and is a great place for summer rafting and boat trips.

The area roughly divides into three parts: around the county town are the Laojun Cave, the old-growth forest of Shuanglonggou and Mengwu Miao Village, good for one day; in Sirong Township, Longnü Gorge, Longbao Grand Canyon ('Little Dongjiang') and Tiantou Miao Village are all about stream trekking and Miao villages; and the northern Yuanbao Mountain route links Yubu Miao Village, Peixiu Miao Village in Antai Township and the Xiaosang terraces, with a separate day needed to climb Yuanbao Mountain. The Gandong terraces are further afield and suit in-depth road trips.

Best seasons: the Lusheng and Horse-Fighting Festival and village 'Pohui' gatherings in the first lunar month are the best way to experience Miao culture; Jul–Aug is for stream trekking, rafting and escaping the heat; and from late September to mid-October the terraces turn golden. Summers are rainy, so check flash-flood warnings before stream trekking in the mountains; rural roads are winding, so drive carefully. Allow 2–3 days. Local specialities include Miao oil tea, sour fish, sticky rice and long-table banquets.

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