Rishikesh

The “Yoga Capital of the World”: ashrams and suspension bridges on the Ganges, the evening Ganga Aarti, with easy add-ons to Haridwar and white-water rafting.

Rishikesh lies in the Indian state of Uttarakhand, in the valley where the Ganges leaves the Himalayan foothills. Known as the “Yoga Capital of the World”, it is about 240 km from New Delhi. The river splits the town in two: on the west bank are the old town bazaar, Triveni Ghat and Sivananda Ashram; on the east bank, around Swarg Ashram, are Parmarth Niketan and the Beatles Ashram; to the north, both banks of Lakshman Jhula form a backpacker quarter packed with cafés and yoga studios. Three suspension bridges link the two banks, so everything can be explored on foot. Further afield: upstream around Shivpuri there is rafting and riverside camping on the Ganges, bungee jumping at Mohan Chatti, and the hilltop Neelkanth Mahadev Temple and Kunjapuri sunrise point; about 25 km downstream, the holy city of Haridwar holds an even grander Ganga Aarti; to the west are safaris in Rajaji National Park, and Dehradun with Robber's Cave and the Forest Research Institute. The best times are Feb–May and Sep–Nov; June is hot, rafting stops during the Jul–Aug monsoon and mountain roads are prone to landslides, and Dec–Jan mornings and evenings are cold. Getting there: trains from Delhi to Haridwar or Rishikesh take about 5–6 hours, or fly into Dehradun's Jolly Grant Airport (about 20 km away). The whole town is vegetarian and alcohol-free; dress modestly, remove your shoes in temples, and watch out for monkeys snatching food. Allow 3–5 days, longer if you sign up for a yoga course.

Top sights

• Lakshman Jhula – Rishikesh's iconic iron suspension bridge. On either bank are the thirteen-story temple tower, cafés, yoga studios and a backpacker distric…
• Parmarth Niketan Ganga Aarti – The largest ashram in Rishikesh. The Ganga Aarti fire ceremony held every sunset is a must-see experience.
• Triveni Ghat – The largest bathing ghat in Rishikesh's old town. Legend says it is where three rivers meet, and the sunset fire ceremony here has more of…
• Beatles Ashram (Chaurasi Kutia) – The abandoned ashram where the Beatles studied Transcendental Meditation in 1968. Its egg-shaped meditation domes and walls covered in graf…
• Ganges Rafting, Shivpuri – India's most popular whitewater rafting trip. The roughly 16-km run from Shivpuri back to Rishikesh passes several Grade 3 and 4 rapids.
• Har Ki Pauri, Haridwar – Haridwar's most sacred Ganges ghat. The sunset fire ceremony, with thousands gathering and flower lamps floating on the water, is a breatht…
• Ram Jhula – A long suspension bridge linking Shivananda Nagar and Swarg Ashram, with views of the Ganges and the temples on both banks from the deck.
• Janki Setu – A new Ganges bridge opened in 2020 that links Muni Ki Reti and Swarg Ashram and eases the crowds on Ram Jhula.
• Tera Manzil Temple (Trayambakeshwar) – A thirteen-tiered temple on the east bank of Lakshman Jhula, with deities enshrined on every level. The rooftop gives views over the Ganges…
• Neelkanth Mahadev Temple – The place where, according to legend, Shiva swallowed poison and his throat turned blue. The temple, decorated with colorful sculptures in…
• Kunjapuri Devi Temple – A goddess temple on a hilltop with views of the Himalayan snow peaks at sunrise. It is a classic sunrise spot in Rishikesh.
• Vashishta Gufa – A cave on the banks of the Ganges where the sage Vashishta is said to have meditated. It is quiet and well suited to sitting meditation.
• Jumpin Heights Bungee (Mohan Chatti) – A bungee jump from a fixed platform 83 meters high in the Mohan Chatti valley, the tallest in India, with a giant swing and zip line also o…
• Neer Garh Waterfall – A multi-tiered waterfall in the forest near Lakshman Jhula, reached in about 20 minutes’ walk, with pools for a cooling dip.
• Patna Waterfall – A small forest waterfall on the way to Neelkanth Temple, reached by a short hike, with a limestone cave and blue-green pools.
• Bharat Mandir – Rishikesh’s oldest temple, said to have been rebuilt by Shankara. The courtyard features an ancient bodhi tree and old stone carvings worth…
• Sivananda Ashram (Divine Life Society) – Headquarters of the Divine Life Society, founded in 1936 by Swami Sivananda. Visitors can join morning meditation and evening satsang for f…
• Rajaji National Park – A tiger reserve at the foot of the Shivalik Hills, known for its herds of Asian elephants. Jeep safaris can be taken from the Chilla or Har…
• Mansa Devi Temple, Haridwar – A wish-granting goddess temple on the summit of Bilwa Hill. Taking the cable car up gives views over Haridwar and the Ganges.
• Chandi Devi Temple, Haridwar – A goddess temple on Neel Parvat, east of the Ganges. Traditionally believed to have been founded by Shankara, it offers wide views from the…
• Daksheswara Mahadev Temple, Kankhal – A Shiva temple in the old town of Kankhal, where, according to legend, the goddess Sati immolated herself at her father Daksha’s sacrifice.
• Shantikunj – Headquarters of the global Gayatri Pariwar family. Visitors can see the eternal lamp, the morning fire ceremony, and a traditional herbal g…
• Sahastradhara – A sulphur spring waterfall area whose name means “a thousand streams.” Water drips from the cave roofs like rain, and a cable car goes up t…
• Forest Research Institute, Dehradun – A red-brick complex completed in 1929 in Greco-Roman and colonial style. The campus is like a park, and six forestry museums are housed ins…
• Mindrolling Monastery – The main Nyingma monastery of Tibetan Buddhism in India, with a Great Stupa about 60 meters tall and murals on several levels inside.

Where to eat

• Chotiwala – A legendary eatery near Swarg Ashram opened in 1958, famous for its Indian vegetarian thalis and the mascot at the entr…
• Little Buddha Cafe – The most famous treehouse-style cafe next to Lakshman Jhula, featuring Ganges views and international vegetarian dishes.
• Anna's Mess – A highly-rated South Indian eatery in Tapovan, popular for its affordable dosas and filter coffee.
• Bistro Nirvana – A cozy restaurant in Tapovan that is one of the few to serve meat, highly rated for everything from mountain mutton to…
• Pure Soul Cafe & Organic Kitchen – An organic vegetarian cafe in Tapovan, attracting yoga travelers with its ragi pizzas and vegan brunches.

Itineraries

• Rishikesh Rafting & Mussoorie Hill Station – A short getaway from Delhi featuring yoga and rafting by the Ganges, followed by the hill station of Mussoorie.
• Valley of Flowers, Hemkund Sahib & Badrinath – Follow the Alaknanda River north from Rishikesh, trek through the Valley of Flowers, and pay homage at Badrinath.