Rangiroa

One of the world's largest atolls, where drift dives through the Tiputa Pass bring you alongside dolphins and shark schools. A diver's paradise.

Rangiroa lies in the northwestern Tuamotu Archipelago of French Polynesia, about 350 km from Tahiti, and is one of the largest atolls in the world: more than 240 coral islets (motu) form a ring roughly 80 km long and 32 km wide, and the lagoon is so vast that you can't see the far shore from the other side. About 2,500 people live here, mostly in the two villages of Avatoru and Tiputa on the north side. The climate is hot year-round, with water temperatures of 26–29°C, so diving is possible all year. May–October is the cool season, with calmer seas and less rain, and the best time for day boat trips. November–April is hot, humid and showery, but December–March is great hammerhead season. The main activities are: first, diving, where the drift dive through Tiputa Pass with dolphins is considered a world-class dive and Avatoru Pass is relatively gentle; second, lagoon day trips, to the Blue Lagoon at the west end, the reef islets on the south side and the pink-sand beach at the southeast end, all 1–2 hours by boat; and third, slow island life: cycling around the villages, visiting a black pearl farm and a rare atoll winery. Getting there: about 1 hour on Air Tahiti from Papeete, Tahiti; you can also island-hop with Tikehau, Fakarava and Bora Bora. Accommodation is mainly family guesthouses (pensions), plus a few overwater-bungalow resorts. Plan to stay 4–5 days, leaving some slack in case boat trips are canceled because of weather. Notes: prices are high and ATMs are few, so bring cash. Book lagoon day trips in advance. Protect yourself from the strong sun and stay hydrated, and use reef-safe sunscreen when snorkeling.

Top sights

• Tiputa Pass – A world-class dive site. On an incoming tide, divers drift with strong currents alongside spinner dolphins and grey reef sharks. From the s…
• Lagon Bleu (Blue Lagoon) – A 'lake within a lake' enclosed by coral reef at the southwest tip of the atoll. The shallow water is crystal clear, with small blacktip re…
• Rangiroa Atoll – One of the world's largest atolls, its vast lagoon ringed by hundreds of small islets. The Tiputa Pass dives, with dolphins and shark schoo…
• Les Sables Roses (Pink Sands) – A pink-sand beach at the southeastern tip of the atoll, where crushed red coral and foraminifera shells tint the sand pink. Set against the…
• Île aux Récifs – A strange islet on the outer rim of the atoll's south side, where ancient coral reefs have been eroded by the sea into dark grey, mushroom-…
• Avatoru Village – Rangiroa's main village, where the airport, guesthouses, dive shops, a small supermarket and a Catholic church are all concentrated along t…
• Avatoru Pass – The second pass on the west side of Avatoru village. Its currents are gentler than Tiputa's, making it suitable for advanced diving and sno…
• Tiputa Village – A quiet village across Tiputa Pass, with a coral-stone church, a school and garden paths, reachable by water taxi in minutes.
• Gauguin's Pearl Farm – Rangiroa's only black pearl farm open to visitors, where you can watch workers implant nuclei into pearl oysters and open the shells to har…
• Vin de Tahiti Winery – One of the few coral-atoll vineyards in the world, where grapes grow among coconut palms to make 'Tahitian wine'. Tours and tastings are av…

Where to eat

• Chez Lili – A family-run eatery by the Ohotu wharf, ranked No. 1 in Rangiroa on TripAdvisor. The owner, Lili, brings Malagasy spice…
• Snack Puna – An affordable waterside snack bar by the Ohotu wharf. Its coconut raw fish and fish curry have a steady reputation, and…

Itineraries

• Society Islands & Tuamotu Atolls – A perfect blend of high islands and atolls, flying from Huahine and Bora Bora to Rangiroa and Fakarava.