Qitai

Vast rain-fed wheat fields meet snow peaks at the northern foot of the Tianshan, Jiangbulake's alpine meadows are picture-perfect in summer, and to the north lies a petrified wood and dinosaur geopark.

Qitai County lies in eastern Changji Prefecture, Xinjiang, at the northern foot of the Tianshan, about 200 km from Urumqi. Known in the past as "Guchengzi", it was an important trading town in northern Xinjiang during the Qing dynasty. From south to north the county stretches from the Tianshan mountains through oasis plains to the Jiangjun Gobi on the eastern edge of the Junggar Basin, so the scenery varies greatly. The area divides into three parts. First, the southern mountains: about 40 km south of the county town, the top-rated (5A) Jiangbulake Scenic Area has vast rain-fed wheat fields, alpine meadows, spruce forests, the Tianshan "Mystery Slope" and Ten Thousand Springs, and nearby is the Han-dynasty city of Shule (the Shichengzi site); the "Xinjiang Qitai Dryland Farming System" is recognized as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System. Second, the county town and surroundings: the Tangchaodun ancient city site and the Qitai Museum, plus the World Heritage Beiting ancient city site in Jimsar County about 35 km west. Third, the Jiangjun Gobi in the north: the Petrified Wood–Dinosaur National Geopark and the Ghost City, about 150 km from the county town, best done as a day trip by chartered car or self-drive. The best season is Jun–Sep: the wheat is green from late June through July, golden from late July through August, and September brings autumn colors. In winter Jiangbulake has a ski resort. Qitai Jiangbulake Airport has flights from Urumqi and elsewhere; from Urumqi you can also take a bus or drive in about 2.5 hours. The sights are far apart, so self-driving is recommended; allow 2–3 days. Xinjiang uses Beijing time, but local life runs about 2 hours later. Local specialties include Qitai guoyourou noodles (stir-fried meat over hand-pulled noodles) and naan made from Qitai flour.

Top sights

• Jiangbulake Scenic Area – A 5A-rated scenic area at the northern foot of the Tian Shan, where ten thousand mu of dryland wheat fields stretch up the slopes toward sn…
• Beiting Ancient City Site – The seat of the Beiting Protectorate of the Tang dynasty and a component of the World Heritage Site “Silk Roads: the Chang’an-Tianshan Corr…
• Qitai Devil City (Yardang) – About 80 square kilometers of yardang landforms on the General Gobi, with colorful earth mounds in strange shapes. When the wind blows, it…
• Tianshan Wheat Sea (Jiangbulake Dry Farmland) – A viewpoint over ten thousand mu of dryland wheat fields at the heart of Jiangbulake, where rolling golden waves stretch toward the snowy p…
• Tianshan Gravity Hill – The so-called Gravity Hill inside the Jiangbulake scenic area. Vehicles appear to roll uphill when put in neutral, an amusing optical illus…
• Yiwanquan Scenic Area – A higher-altitude area of spruce forest and springs in the southern part of Jiangbulake, with meadows, springs and snowy mountain views. It…
• Shichengzi Site (Han Dynasty Shule City) – The ruins of Shule City, which Geng Gong defended during the Eastern Han dynasty. It is the only Han-dynasty ancient city in Xinjiang whose…
• Tangchaodun Ancient City Site – The ruins of an ancient city from the Tang to Yuan dynasties, in the town of Qitai. Excavations uncovered a Nestorian church and a bathhous…
• Qitai Museum – A county-level museum that tells the story of Qitai's ancient city and its Silk Road trade, and displays artifacts excavated from Tangchaod…
• Jimsar Thousand Buddha Cave – A grotto temple south of Jimsar County town, built into a hillside. It is a rare Buddhist cave temple in northern Xinjiang, with views over…
• Qitai Petrified Wood & Dinosaur National Geopark – A geopark on the General Gobi with one of Asia's largest concentrations of petrified wood and Dinosaur Valley, where Mamenchisaurus sinocan…
• Mori Primeval Populus Euphratica Forest – A primeval Populus euphratica forest on the eastern edge of the Gurbantünggüt Desert. In autumn the golden trees are scattered across the s…

Where to eat

• Lao Dongmen Guoyourou Banmian Restaurant – The best-known guoyourou noodle shop in Qitai, recognized as a Qitai guoyourou heritage workshop and featured on CCTV f…
• Yaozhanzi Noodle House – County-town noodle shop that makes banmian with organic flour and rapeseed oil from Yaozhanzi Village; popular with loc…

Itineraries

• Eastern Tianshan Loop: Qitai, Barkol, Hami & Turpan – A loop from Urumqi around the Eastern Tianshan, connecting wheat fields, grasslands, the Hami King's Palace, and the an…