Qilian

The “Switzerland of the East”: Zhuoer Mountain's Danxia landforms face the snow peak of Niuxin Mountain, with Binggou forest, E'bao grassland and Heihe Grand Canyon, the most beautiful stretch of the northern Qinghai–Gansu Grand Loop.

Qilian County lies in the northwest of Haibei Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, on the southern foothills of the central Qilian Mountains. The county seat, Babao Town, is at about 2,800 m. Known as the “Switzerland of the East,” it is the finest stretch between Xining and Zhangye and of the northern part of the Qinghai Grand Loop. There are three core areas. Around the county seat, the Danxia landforms of Zhuoer Mountain, the snow peak of Niuxin Mountain opposite and the Binggou forest make a classic half-day to one-day combination. East of the county seat, along the Babao River past Arou Great Temple to the ancient town of E'bao, is a vast pastoral area of Qilian Mountain grassland, and further northeast you cross Biandukou into Minle and Zhangye in Gansu. West of the county seat, following the Heihe River upstream, is the Heihe Grand Canyon, with its deep gorge and dramatic road. To the south, crossing the 4,120 m Dadongshu Mountain Pass leads down to Gangca and Qinghai Lake. The best season is July to early August: rapeseed and highland barley fields bloom in the Babao River valley, the grasslands are green and snow lingers on the peaks; June and September are quieter, and late September turns the grassland golden; October to May is cold, and Zhuoer Mountain is often closed in winter. Getting there: the county has no railway or airport. The usual way is to drive from Xining via Menyuan and E'bao to Qilian (about 5 hours), or from Zhangye via Biandukou (about 3 hours); there are also buses from Xining. Plan to stay 1–2 days; the rapeseed sea of Menyuan to the east is covered in the separate “Menyuan” destination. Notes: UV is strong on the plateau and temperatures swing widely between morning and evening, so bring a warm jacket; grasslands and flower fields are mostly herders' private land, so get permission before entering to take photos; accommodation is tight in summer, so book ahead; mountain roads are winding, and in rain watch for falling rocks.

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