Qikou Ancient Town

A former Shanxi merchant river port on the Yellow River, with Ming and Qing warehouses stacked up the hillside and the tiered cave dwellings of Lijiashan, a favorite with painters and photographers.

Qikou Ancient Town lies at the southern tip of Lin County in Lüliang, Shanxi, on the western slopes of the Lüliang Mountains, where the Qiushui River flows into the Yellow River; across the river are Wubu and Jia County in Shaanxi. From the Ming and Qing dynasties to the Republican era, cargo boats coming down the upper Yellow River could not pass the treacherous Datong Rapids and had to unload at Qikou, where goods were transferred overland to central Shanxi, Beijing and Tianjin. This made Qikou a major river-and-land transshipment port in northern China, dubbed the First Town on the Nine-Bend Yellow River. The town climbs the hillside, and its three market streets (west, middle and east) preserve many warehouses, old banks and camel inns. The surrounding villages of Lijiashan, Xiwan and Zhaizishan are made up of tier upon tier of Ming and Qing cave dwellings, drawing many sketch artists and photographers. About 20 km north along the Yellow River highway is the Yellow River Gallery, a stretch of water-eroded relief cliffs; about 50 km across the river are Xianglu Temple and Baiyun Mountain in Jia County, Shaanxi. The best seasons are Apr–May (apricot blossoms) and Sep–Oct (autumn colors); summers are fairly hot, and winters are cold but bring drift ice on the Yellow River. Getting there: about 3.5 hours by expressway from Taiyuan, or take the train to Lüliang or Lin County and transfer; sights are far apart, so self-driving or hiring a car is recommended. Spend 2 days with a night in a cave-house guesthouse: on day one explore the old streets, Black Dragon Temple and Xiwan; on day two catch sunrise at Lijiashan and then head to the Yellow River Gallery. The old town is free to enter, though some villages and venues may charge; check the notices on site.

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