Puno
The Peruvian gateway to Lake Titicaca, with the Uros floating reed islands, Taquile Island textiles and homestays on Amantaní, linking up with the train from the Cusco highlands.
Puno is in southeastern Peru on the western shore of Lake Titicaca, at about 3,830 m. It is the gateway to the Peruvian side of the "world's highest navigable lake," and is also known as the "folkloric capital of Peru." The climate is cold highland: May–October is the dry season, with deep blue skies but mornings and evenings that can fall below 0°C; November–April is the rainy season, with frequent afternoon showers. The Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria in February is the liveliest time of the year. Sightseeing falls into three areas. First, on the lake: take a boat to the Uros floating reed islands (half a day), combine them with a day trip to Taquile Island, or spend a night with a family on Amantaní or at Llachón on the Capachica Peninsula. Second, in town: the Plaza de Armas and Cathedral, the Jirón Lima pedestrian street, the Carlos Dreyer Museum, the Yavari steamship, and the hilltop viewpoints of Kuntur Wasi and Puma Uta. Third, around the region: the Sillustani burial towers and pink town of Lampa to the northwest, and the colonial churches of Chucuito, Juli and Pomata and the Aramu Muru gateway on the southern shore, each usually taking half a day to a day. Getting there: the nearest airport is in Juliaca (about 45 km, with flights to Lima and Cusco); there are long-distance buses (about 7 hours) and a tourist train between Cusco and Puno; overland border crossings lead to Copacabana and La Paz in Bolivia. We suggest 3–4 days. Notes: arriving directly from low altitude often brings altitude sickness, so take it slowly for the first two days, drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol, and try coca tea to ease symptoms; UV is strong on the lake, so a sun hat and sunglasses are essential; islands and villages mostly use cash (soles).
Top sights
- Uros Floating Islands – Artificial floating islands made of totora reeds in Puno Bay, Peru. The Uros people have lived for generations in these 'floating villages'.
- Taquile Island – A lake island famous for men's weaving. The textile craft is on UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, and stone steps climb to a s…
- Sillustani – Cylindrical burial towers from the Colla and Inca periods on a peninsula in Lake Umayo. Stone towers up to 12 metres high rise from the lak…
- Amantaní Island Homestay – The largest Peruvian island on Lake Titicaca. Stay with local farming families and visit the pre-Inca temples of Pachatata and Pachamama on…
- Inca Uyo, Chucuito – A stone-walled courtyard in the town of Chucuito, south of Puno, with dozens of carved stone phalluses standing inside. It is said to have…
- Plaza de Armas & Puno Cathedral – The central square of Puno. On its west side stands the Cathedral of San Carlos Borromeo, with an 18th-century Baroque stone facade.
- Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria – One of South America's grandest religious folk festivals, where tens of thousands of dancers in elaborate costumes perform devil dances and…
- Yavari Ship Museum – An iron-hulled steamship assembled on Lake Titicaca. Built in Britain in 1862 and carried over the Andes by mule trains, it now serves as a…
- Kuntur Wasi Viewpoint – A viewpoint on a hillside west of Puno, with a giant condor sculpture, overlooking the city and Puno Bay on Lake Titicaca.
- Puma Uta Viewpoint – A viewpoint on a hill in northern Puno, with a puma stone sculpture, offering another angle on the city and Puno Bay.
- Arco Deustua – A stone arch built in 1847 to commemorate the battles of Junín and Ayacucho in Peru's War of Independence. It is a landmark at the northern…
- Carlos Dreyer Museum – Puno's municipal museum, displaying pre-Inca pottery, gold and silver, artifacts from Sillustani, and the collection of German-born painter…
- Museo de la Coca y Costumbres – A small private museum in the city center that explains the role of coca leaves in Andean culture and displays costumes from the Candelaria…
- Llachón, Capachica Peninsula – An agricultural and herding village at the tip of the Capachica Peninsula. It offers homestays, reed boat rides and hikes with lake views…
- Cutimbo – A pre-Inca burial tower site on a plateau south of Puno, with both square and round towers and stone carvings of lizards and pumas.
- Juli (Colonial Churches) – The 'Rome of America' on the southwest shore of the lake. Jesuit and Dominican missionaries left four massive colonial stone churches here…
- Church of Santiago Apóstol, Pomata – A church of pink stone on a hill on the southern shore of the lake. Its facade and windows are covered in Andean Baroque carvings, and its…
- Aramu Muru (Hayu Marca) – A 7-meter-square 'doorframe' carved into a natural red rock wall, with a small recessed door in the middle. Local legend regards it as a ga…
- Lampa – A small colonial town northwest of Puno, where most houses are painted pink. The Church of Santiago Apóstol holds a reproduction of Michela…
Where to eat
- Mojsa – A second-floor restaurant next to Plaza de Armas, serving Novoandina cuisine featuring trout and alpaca, known as Puno'…
- La Casona – A second-floor restaurant in a historic house on Jirón Lima, specializing in alpaca tenderloin and quinoa soup, praised…
- Balcones de Puno – A dinner restaurant where you can watch highland folk music and dance performances, starting at 19:30 nightly, with a m…
- Tulipans Restaurant & Pizzeria – A pizzeria located inside Casona Parodi on Jirón Lima, famous for its wood-fired and alpaca pizzas, offering affordable…
Itineraries
- Peru Classic Southern Loop – A gradual altitude-acclimatizing loop from Lima via the White City, Colca Canyon, and Lake Titicaca to Cusco and Machu…
- Peru & Bolivia Highlands Highlights – From Machu Picchu across Lake Titicaca to La Paz and the Uyuni Salt Flats