Poznań

The cradle of the Polish state, where mechanical goats butt heads atop the town hall on the colourful Old Market Square every noon, Cathedral Island holds the tombs of the first rulers, and Kórnik Castle and Gniezno are nearby.

Poznań lies in western Poland, between Warsaw and Berlin. It is the capital of the Greater Poland Voivodeship and the birthplace of the Polish state: in the 10th century Mieszko I was baptised on Cathedral Island (Ostrów Tumski) in the Warta River, marking the start of the Piast dynasty. Today it is a lively university and business city, compact and easy to explore on foot. The main sights are in two places: first, the Old Market Square, where the goats butt heads atop the Renaissance town hall every day at noon, the colourful houses around it hold restaurants and the Croissant Museum, and the pink Baroque Fara (Parish Church) to the south is well worth a look; second, Cathedral Island, about 1.5 km east, with the Porta Posnania across the river and the mural-covered Śródka district. Other attractions include the Imperial Castle, the National Museum, the Old Brewery, Lake Malta and the New Zoo. Recommended day trips are Kórnik Castle and Rogalin Palace (in the same direction), or the Piast Trail to Gniezno Cathedral, Lednica island and the Biskupin archaeological site—the latter is about 90 km from the city and requires a car. The best time to visit is May–Sep; winters are cold but bring a Christmas market, and on 11 November, St Martin's Day, the whole city eats St Martin's croissants and there is a parade. Getting there: Poznań has an international airport, and trains to Warsaw and Berlin take about 2.5 hours and 2.5–3 hours respectively. Allow 2–3 days.

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