Porto-Novo

Benin's constitutional capital, with a Brazilian-style grand mosque, the Toffa Royal Palace and a national museum telling the story of the Yoruba kingdom and the returnees from Brazil.

Porto-Novo is the constitutional capital of Benin, where the National Assembly sits. It lies on the north shore of the Porto-Novo lagoon in southern Ouémé Department, about 30 km from the largest city, Cotonou, a drive of roughly an hour. The nearest airport is in Cotonou. From the 17th century, it was the capital of the Yoruba-speaking Hogbonu Kingdom (also known as the Ajatché Kingdom). In the 19th century, descendants of enslaved people who returned from Brazil settled here and left behind many Brazilian-style buildings. The city moves much more slowly than Cotonou. The old town is small and can be covered in half a day. The colorful Brazilian-style Grand Mosque, the Toffa Royal Palace (Honmè Museum), the National Museum with its masks and royal regalia, the da Silva Museum on the history of Brazilian returnees, and the cathedral are all within 1–2 km of one another. The Botanical and Natural Garden in the city center is a sacred grove with monkeys. To the north are the Wando Grand Market and the Songhai Center ecological farm. Outside town, you can take a boat to the Aguégué water village, or go to Adjara to watch hand drums being made.

November–March, the dry season, is the most comfortable. April–July is the main rainy season, and September–October is the minor rainy season. Plan 1–2 days, or do it as a day trip from Cotonou. The main local transport is zémidjan (motorcycle taxis), so agree on the fare first. Some museums are closed on Mondays, and admission is usually paid in cash (West African CFA francs). Get permission before photographing religious sites and people. Chinese citizens traveling to Benin need to obtain a visa or e-visa in advance and receive a yellow fever vaccination.

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