Pingliang & Kongtong Mountain

Kongtong Mountain, revered as the 'source of the Tao', with Kongtong-style martial arts and the legend of the Yellow Emperor seeking the Way, plus Pingliang red beef and eastern Gansu charm – an off-the-beaten-path destination for Taoism and summer escapes in northwest China.

Pingliang lies in eastern Gansu where the Longdong Loess Plateau meets the Liupan Mountains, bordering Shaanxi to the east and Ningxia to the north. The Jing River crosses it from west to east, and since ancient times it has been a strategic gateway between Guanzhong and Gansu and the 'first city west of Chang'an' on the eastern Silk Road. Its best-known attraction is Kongtong Mountain – the 'source of the Tao' in Taoism, birthplace of Kongtong-style martial arts, and a national 5A (top-rated) scenic area. Jingchuan County in the east has the Queen Mother of the West Palace on Hui Mountain, cradle of Queen Mother of the West culture, the Dayun Temple founded by imperial order of Wu Zetian, and a cluster of Northern Wei grottoes.

Best time to visit: May–Oct. Summers are cool (Kongtong Mountain is a few degrees cooler than the city), making it a northwest summer retreat; the red leaves and layered forests of Kongtong Mountain are most beautiful in Sep–Oct; winter is dry and cold, and mountain paths may ice over.

Itinerary: ① Pingliang city and Kongtong Mountain, 1 day – start at Wendao Palace, take the shuttle or cable car up to Zhongtai, climb to Huangcheng, then visit Tanzheng Lake; in the evening, stroll Liuhu Park (site of the Song dynasty Liuhu Academy and its warm springs) and the Yan'en Temple Pagoda in the city; ② Jingchuan, half to full day – Dayun Temple, the Queen Mother of the West Palace on Hui Mountain and its grottoes, and the Southern Grotto Temple; ③ Extensions – Lianhuatai and Yunya Temple in the Guanshan Mountains of Zhuanglang, Lianhuatai in Huating, or north to the Liupan Mountains (Ningxia). Suggested stay: 2–3 days.

Getting there: Pingliang Station has conventional trains to Xi'an, Lanzhou, Yinchuan, Baoji and elsewhere; the nearest airports are Guyuan Liupanshan Airport and Qingyang Airport; driving from Xi'an via the G22 Qingdao–Lanzhou Expressway takes about 4 hours. Kongtong Mountain is about 12 km from the city, easily reached by taxi or bus.

Food: Pingliang red beef, beef noodles, guanguan tea (brewed in small clay pots), niangpi cold noodles and guokui flatbread are classic eastern Gansu flavors. Tips: Kongtong Mountain's stone steps are steep, so wear non-slip shoes; admission, cable car prices and opening hours are subject to current official announcements.

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