Phongsaly

Laos's northernmost mountain town, with Phou Fa rising above a sea of clouds, century-old tea gardens and Akha and Phunoi villages – an untouched destination for ethnic-minority trekking.

Phongsaly is the capital of Phongsaly Province, the northernmost in Laos. Sitting on a ridge at about 1,400 m, the province borders China's Yunnan and Vietnam on its northern, eastern and western sides. More than twenty ethnic groups live here, including the Akha, Phunoi, Tai Lue, Yao and Hani, making it one of the most ethnically diverse and least developed parts of Laos; ancient tea trees and old frontier streets keep a strong Yunnanese flavour.

Highlights: climb the steps of Phou Fa at the edge of town for sunrise and a sea of clouds; take your time wandering the hillside old Chinese quarter, French-era buildings and the morning market; the ethnic museum introduces the dress of the various groups; and outside town, Ban Komaen has ancient tea trees around 400 years old. The signature experiences are the eco-treks to Akha and Phunoi villages run by the tourism office, and the river route down the Nam Ou from the Hat Sa landing.

Getting there: long-distance buses run from Luang Prabang, Oudomxay or Muang Khua, but the mountain roads are winding and the journey is long; Phongsaly has a small airport, but flights are unreliable. The town can be explored on foot, while village treks and Hat Sa require a hired vehicle. Plan on 2–4 days.

Climate: Nov–Mar is dry and cool and the best season, though nights can drop close to 0°C, so bring warm clothes; the May–Sep rainy season brings fog and muddy mountain roads, affecting boat trips and treks. ATMs are scarce, so bring enough cash.

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