Phayao

A quiet provincial town on Phayao Lake in northern Thailand. Wat Tilok on the lake, sunsets along the embankment, and the cloud sea of Phu Lanka make it a slow-travel stop between Chiang Rai and Nan.

Phayao is the capital of Phayao Province in northern Thailand. It lies about 150 km northeast of Chiang Mai and 90 km south of Chiang Rai, on the east shore of Phayao Lake, one of the largest freshwater lakes in northern Thailand. In the 13th century it was the independent kingdom of Phayao, later absorbed into Lanna, and it left behind many old temples. Compared with Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, Phayao has fewer tourists and a slower pace, and it is known for lake sunsets and traditional temples.

Main areas: (1) The lakeside town: the lakefront embankment path, boat trips to Wat Tilok in the lake, the giant Buddha at Wat Si Khom Kham with its cultural exhibition hall, and Wat Si Ubon Kham by the lake. On the hill to the north, Phra That Chom Thong Temple and its sky walkway overlook the whole lake. (2) Western hills: Wat Analayo on Doi Bussarakham, Champathong Waterfall in Luang Mountain National Park, and Mae Phuang National Park to the north. (3) Eastern Chiang Kham and Pong districts: Wat Nam Tarn, Shan and Tai Lue temples, the Pu Sang hot-spring waterfall, and Phu Lanka Forest Park, famous for its cloud sea (staying overnight on the mountain is recommended).

Climate: November–February is cool and dry, the best season for lake sunsets and the cloud sea at Phu Lanka. March–May is hot, with frequent smoke haze from burning. June–October is the rainy season, when waterfalls run full but mountain roads are slippery.

Getting there: Phayao has no airport. Fly to Chiang Rai (about 1.5 hours by car) or Chiang Mai (about 2.5–3 hours by car). Long-distance buses run from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Rai to the Phayao bus station. Around the lakeside town you can walk or rent a bicycle. Getting to Chiang Kham and Phu Lanka requires a car or a hired driver. Plan 2–3 days. Phayao is often combined with Chiang Rai and Nan to form a northern Thailand loop.

Top sights

• Kwan Phayao – One of the largest freshwater lakes in northern Thailand. The long embankment on its eastern shore is where Phayao locals walk, cycle, eat…
• Wat Tilok Aram – An ancient temple submerged when the lake was created. Only its pagoda and Buddha images now rise above the water, reached by small boat, m…
• Wat Si Khom Kham – Phayao's most important royal temple, housing Phra Chao Ton Luang, the largest Buddha image from the Lanna period. Its lakeside hall featur…
• Phu Langka Forest Park – A highland forest park on Phayao's eastern border with Laos, where clouds churn at dawn and the elephant-shaped cliff Pha Chang Noi can be…
• Phayao Cultural Exhibition Hall – A local museum inside Wat Si Khom Kham that holds stone carvings, Buddha images and folk artifacts from the ancient kingdom of Phayao, help…
• Wat Phra That Chom Thong & Phayao Skywalk – An ancient pagoda temple on a small hill north of Phayao Lake. The newly built skywalk extends over the treetops, offering views of the who…
• Wat Analayo Thipayaram – A forest temple on Doi Busarakham, with white and gold halls stacked along the mountain, Buddhist architecture from several countries, and…
• Wat Li – A Lanna-era temple in Phayao's old town with an ancient pagoda from the late 15th century. A small museum inside displays artifacts excavat…
• Wat Si Umong Kham – An old temple beside the lakeside promenade, enshrining the golden bronze image 'Phra Chao Lan Thong', held in reverence by Phayao people…
• Mae Puem National Park – A mountain national park north of Phayao city, with a reservoir, waterfalls and mountain viewpoints, and campsites. A place where locals en…
• Champathong Waterfall (Doi Luang National Park) – A multi-tiered waterfall on the Phayao side of Doi Luang National Park, with forest trails that follow the stream upward. It is the most co…
• Phu Sang Waterfall – A rare hot spring waterfall in Thailand, where water at about 35°C pours from a rock wall into a pool that you can soak your feet in or swi…
• Wat Nantaram, Chiang Kham – A teak temple in Chiang Khong district in the Shan style, with an entire prayer hall built of teak, and layered roofs and fine woodcarving…
• Wat Phra Nang Din – An old temple in Chiang Khong district whose main Buddha sits directly on the ground without a pedestal. Legend holds that the Buddha did n…
• Wat Phra That Sop Waen – An ancient Tai Lue-style temple in Chiang Khong town, with low, layered roofs and an old pagoda, a representative temple for understanding…

Where to eat

• Krua Aurora – A popular Thai eatery on the shore of Phayao Lake, with lakeside seating for watching the sunset. Coconut seafood steam…
• Saeng Phian Khao Soi – A lakeside landmark khao soi noodle shop open for more than forty years, known for beef and chicken khao soi and Northe…
• Saeng Chan Lakeside Restaurant – A local home-style eatery on the lakefront road, specializing in fried Phayao lake fish, crispy fried small shrimp and…