Petrozavodsk & Kizhi

The Karelian capital on the shores of Lake Onega, a boat ride from the UNESCO-listed wooden churches of Kizhi, with forests and lakes, Kivach Falls and an ancient volcanic crater nearby.

Petrozavodsk is the capital of Russia's Republic of Karelia, on the western shore of Lake Onega, Europe's second-largest lake. The city grew up around a cannon foundry founded here by Peter the Great in 1703 — its name means 'Peter's Works'. It's a compact city whose main sights line the lakeside embankment and the stretch from Lenin Square to Kirov Square, but above all it is the main gateway to the UNESCO-listed wooden churches of Kizhi. The best time to visit is Jun–Sep, when hydrofoils run and you can do Kizhi as a day trip; Jun–Jul brings the White Nights, and in late September the autumn leaves turn gold. In the snow season (Dec–Mar) you can go snowmobiling, husky sledding and ice fishing, with the occasional aurora, though transport to Kizhi is very limited. Allow 3 days: one in the city (the embankment, the National Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts and the wooden church); one taking the hydrofoil to Kizhi; and one driving north or joining a tour to Kivach Falls, the Marcial Waters spa, the ancient Girvas volcanic crater and Mount Sampo. Getting there: trains from St Petersburg take about 5–8 hours (including the Lastochka express), and there are overnight trains from Moscow; Petrozavodsk Besovets Airport has a handful of domestic flights. Russian visa and entry rules change often, and foreign bank cards generally don't work, so arrange cash or a local payment method in advance.

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Itineraries