Peñíscola
A walled old town on a headland jutting into the Mediterranean, dominated by a Templar castle that overlooks a long sandy beach, with the Irta natural park and the old town of Morella nearby.
Peñíscola lies on the Maestrazgo coast at the northern tip of Castellón province, in the Valencian Community of Spain, between Valencia and Barcelona. The old town is built on a rocky headland about 64 meters high that juts into the Mediterranean, connected to the mainland only by a narrow sandbar, which is why it is called the 'town on the sea'. At the highest point stands the castle built by the Knights Templar in the late 13th and early 14th centuries. In the early 15th century, the antipope Benedict XIII, known as the 'Moon Pope', made it his papal seat, which is why it is also called the Papal Castle of the Moon. The outer bastion walls were added in the 16th century under Philip II. The whitewashed alleys, the Bufador sea caves carved by the waves, the Ermita de la Virgen de la Ermitana and the Marine Museum are all on the headland. The town has also been used as a filming location for the film 'El Cid' and the TV series 'Game of Thrones'.
The North Beach, about 5 km long, is the main resort area. To the south there is a fishing harbour and small beaches. Further south lies the Sierra de Irta natural park, which preserves the most unspoilt stretch of the Valencian coastline. You can walk or cycle along the coastal path to Paduma and Wild Bay.
The climate is Mediterranean. June to September is beach season, with July and August the busiest and most expensive for accommodation. April to June and September to October are mild, ideal for exploring the old town and hiking in Irta. Winter is quiet, and some hotels and restaurants close.
Getting there: the nearest railway station is Benicarló–Peñíscola, served by regional trains between Valencia and Barcelona. From the station, take a bus or taxi for about 15 minutes. Castellón Airport is about an hour away, and Valencia Airport about 1.5–2 hours.
Plan 2–3 days. One day can include a drive inland to the old town of Morella. Note that the old town has many slopes and steps and gets very hot in summer, so visit the castle early or late in the day. Vehicles are banned inside the old town, so park in the car park outside the walls.
Top sights
- Peñíscola Castle (Castle of Pope Luna) – Built by the Knights Templar at the tip of a rocky peninsula, this castle was the seat of Pope Luna, the antipope Benedict XIII. From the t…
- Peñíscola Old Town – A walled old town on a rocky peninsula. White-walled alleys, stone steps and sea-view terraces climb upward, surrounded on all sides by the…
- Playa Norte – A fine-sand beach stretching about 5 km north from the old peninsula. The water is shallow and calm, with the castle and old town as its cl…
- El Bufador – A natural sea-carved vertical cave in the old town's rocks. In rough weather, seawater spouts from its opening with a booming roar.
- Artillery Park – A garden built along the bastion walls below the castle, preserving 16th-century gun emplacements, a powder magazine and palm groves, with…
- Hermitage of Our Lady of the Ermitana – An 18th-century baroque hermitage beside the castle, dedicated to Peñíscola's patron Our Lady, with an ornate gilded altar inside.
- Sea Museum – A free small museum in the Prince's Bastion, showing Peñíscola's fishing and seafaring history, with aquariums of Mediterranean fish.
- Port of Peñíscola – A traditional fishing harbour at the foot of the old town, where boats return in the evening and fish auctions are held. It is also the dep…
- Playa Sur – A small bay beach between the old town peninsula and the fishing port. The water is calm and it is backed by the city walls, making it quie…
- Serra d'Irta Natural Park – The most unspoiled coastal mountains in Valencia. Coastal trails link hidden coves, rocky shores and watchtowers, making it ideal for hikin…
- Torre Badum – A 16th-century coastal watchtower on the cliffs of the Serra d'Irta, with steep shoreline below. It is the park's most classic viewpoint an…
- Xivert Castle – Ruins of an Islamic and Knights Templar castle on the Serra d'Irta ridge, with crumbling walls around an abandoned village and views over t…
- Morella – A medieval walled hilltop town with a rock-top castle and a Gothic cathedral overlooking the mountains. It is the classic day trip from Peñ…
- Benicarló – A fishing town right next to Peñíscola, known for its protected artichoke, with a baroque bell tower in the old town and a seafront promena…
- Vinaròs – The northernmost fishing town in Castellón province, famous for local prawns and carnival, and ideal for a half-day seafood trip.
Where to eat
- Casa Jaime – A family-run rice and seafood restaurant founded by a fisherman in 1967, holding one Repsol Sun. Its signature Calabuch…
- El Peñón – A family-run seafood restaurant inside the old town walls, open since 1982, with a garden terrace between the walls ove…
- Amaika – An affordable family-style restaurant on the pedestrian street outside the old town, with generous portions and quick s…