Pantanal
The world's largest tropical wetland: head south from Poconé along the dirt-road Transpantaneira, spotting capybaras, caimans and macaws among wooden bridges and ranch lodges, then take a boat from Porto Jofre in search of jaguars.
The Pantanal is the largest tropical wetland on Earth, spanning the Brazilian states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul as well as parts of Bolivia and Paraguay; sections of it are a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site. This destination covers the Northern Pantanal, whose gateway is Poconé in Mato Grosso, about 100 km from the state capital, Cuiabá.
Where to go: The Transpantaneira highway, running south from Poconé, is the main axis. Near its start, the entrance gate and ranch lodges such as Pousada Piuval make a good introduction; along the middle stretch around the Pixaim River you can take boat trips to see giant otters; and at the end of the road, Porto Jofre is the base for boat trips into Encontro das Águas State Park to track jaguars. To the east lie the SESC Pantanal reserve and Porto Cercado.
Best time to visit: In the July–October dry season, wildlife gathers around the remaining waterholes, and August–October offers the best chances of seeing jaguars, though this is also peak fire season. In the November–March wet season, large areas flood, roads turn to mud and some lodges close, but the landscape is lush and green.
Getting there: Fly into Cuiabá, then rent a car or arrange a lodge transfer to Poconé and onto the highway. The entire road is unpaved, so a high-clearance vehicle is recommended. Plan to stay 4–6 days, usually splitting your time between lodges on the middle stretch of the highway and Porto Jofre. Bring plenty of insect repellent, sunscreen, long-sleeved clothing and cash; in high season, book accommodation and boat trips several months in advance.
Top sights
- Transpantaneira – A 147 km dirt road running deep into the wetlands from Poconé, with more than a hundred wooden bridges. Caimans, capybaras and wading birds…
- Porto Jofre Jaguar Safari – A river port at the end of the Transpantaneira, where you can take a speedboat along the Cuiabá River to look for jaguars. It is one of the…
- Encontro das Águas State Park – A state park where the Cuiabá River meets several tributaries, with an extremely high density of jaguars. The only way in is by boat.
- Pixaim River – A small river along the middle stretch of the Transpantaneira Highway, where boat trips and canoe outings reveal giant otters, kingfishers…
- SESC Pantanal Reserve – One of Brazil's largest private nature reserves. Boat trips and birdwatching are available from the Porto Cercado hotel on the banks of the…
- Pousada Piuval – A long-established ranch lodge near the start of the Transpantaneira Highway. Horseback riding, trekking and night safaris are the easiest…
- Transpantaneira Gate – A wooden gate where the paved road ends and the dirt track begins. It's the classic photo stop at the entrance to the Pantanal.
- Poconé – A small gateway town in the northern Pantanal and the last supply stop before the Transpantaneira Highway, known for its traditional Cavalh…
Where to eat
- Churrascaria Tradição – The highest-rated barbecue restaurant in central Poconé, with local specialty fried caiman strips alongside a range of…
- Churrascaria Pantaneira – A barbecue restaurant and inn at kilometer zero of the Transpantaneira highway, offering rodízio, buffet and weighed me…
Itineraries
- Transpantaneira Highway & Jaguar Safari – Drive south from Cuiabá along the unpaved highway, staying at a ranch to spot birds and wildlife, then head to Porto Jo…
- Brazilian Central Highlands & Wetlands – An in-depth, long-distance route connecting Brasília, the Cerrado Highlands, Northern Pantanal, and Chapada dos Guimarã…