Pangalanes Canal

A chain of lagoons and canals on Madagascar's east coast; boats reach the Palmarium Reserve on Lake Ampitabe for close-up views of lemurs and, at night, the aye-aye.

The Pangalanes Canal is an inland waterway about 650 kilometers long along Madagascar's east coast. Built during the French colonial period by linking a chain of coastal lagoons, lakes and rivers, it runs from Toamasina in the north to Farafangana in the south, separated from the Indian Ocean by only a narrow sandbar. Visitors most often go to the northern section, about 60 kilometers south of Toamasina. At the Palmarium Reserve on the shore of Lake Ampitabe (Ankanin'nofy), more than ten lemur species roam freely and can be observed up close. At night, boats head to nearby islands to search for the aye-aye, Madagascar's most mysterious animal. To the south, Lake Rasoabe and Manambato are lakeside resorts and boarding points. Along the way you can see dugout canoe fishermen, fishing villages, bamboo fish traps and mangroves, and there are white sand beaches on the lakeshore. On the side facing the Indian Ocean, however, the waves are large and sharks are present, so swimming in the sea is not recommended. Swimming in the lake is safer.

Getting there: From the capital, Antananarivo, drive east along RN2 for about 6–7 hours to Brickaville, then take a dirt road to the Manambato jetty, followed by a 45-minute boat ride to Palmarium. Alternatively, take a boat from Toamasina, about 2.5 hours north. The canal is often combined with Andasibe-Mantadia National Park as an eastern route. Plan 2 nights. The best season is April to December, with September to November the driest. January to March is cyclone season, when heavy rain and storms may halt boat service. Take mosquito and malaria precautions. Book reserve accommodation in advance and confirm the transfer boat times.

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