Palermo
Capital of Sicily, with Arab-Norman churches and golden mosaics, street food at the Ballarò market, and the seaside town of Cefalù an hour away.
Palermo is the capital of the Italian region of Sicily, located on the Gulf of Palermo on the island's northwest coast, backed by Monte Pellegrino, with a population of more than 600,000. Over more than two thousand years, the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Spanish and others have all left their mark here. The "Arab-Norman" architectural ensemble from the 12th-century Norman kingdom, blending Islamic, Byzantine and Latin styles (the Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel, the Cathedral, La Martorana, San Cataldo and La Zisa, along with the cathedrals of Monreale and Cefalù), was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015. The old town is centered on Quattro Canti, where Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda cross, and is divided into four historic quarters; churches, palaces and open-air markets such as Ballarò and Capo are densely packed, making it ideal for exploring on foot. The new town, bounded by Teatro Massimo and Teatro Politeama, is where shopping and dining are concentrated. Palermo is also Italy's street food capital: don't miss arancine (fried rice balls), panelle (chickpea fritters) and pane con la milza (spleen sandwich). Day trips: Mondello beach to the north, Monreale to the southwest, Bagheria and Cefalù to the east, and the Temple of Segesta, the Zingaro Reserve and the hilltop town of Erice to the west. Climate: April–June and September–October are best; July–August is hot and is also beach season; winters are mild and rainy. Getting there: Falcone-Borsellino Airport is about 35 km from the city center, about 50 minutes by train or airport bus; from Rome and Naples you can take an overnight ferry or fly. Suggested time: 3–4 days. Notes: watch for pickpockets in markets and on buses; non-resident vehicles are banned from the old town's ZTL restricted zone on weekends; churches require covered shoulders and knees; many sights are closed on Mondays or at midday, so check official websites before you go.
Top sights
- Palermo Historic Centre – The capital of Sicily, with its Arab-Norman cathedral, the Norman Palace, and the Ballarò and Vucciria markets. A paradise for street food.
- Monreale Cathedral – Built in the 12th century by Norman king William II, with about 6,400 square metres of gold mosaics covering the entire church. It is the p…
- Palazzo dei Normanni & Cappella Palatina – One of Europe's oldest royal palaces. Inside, the Palatine Chapel is filled with gold Byzantine mosaics and an Arab wooden stalactite ceili…
- Ballarò Market – Palermo's oldest and most lively open-air market, with vendors calling out all day. It is the top spot for street snacks such as fried rice…
- Segesta – A Doric Greek temple from the late 5th century BC, remarkably well preserved in the countryside. A Greek theatre on the hilltop overlooks t…
- Cefalù – A Norman town tucked beneath a towering rock, with a golden sandy beach beside the medieval old town. The cathedral's mosaics and a hike up…
- Quattro Canti – A Baroque octagonal square at the crossroads of the old town's two main streets. Its four facades are decorated in tiers with fountains, th…
- Fontana Pretoria – A large 16th-century fountain carved by Florentine craftsmen, surrounded by dozens of nude statues, nicknamed the 'Fountain of Shame' by lo…
- Teatro Massimo – Italy's largest opera house, with a grand Neoclassical facade. The shootout on the steps at the end of 'The Godfather Part III' was filmed…
- Mondello Beach – A white-sand bay more than 10 km north of the city, nestled between two mountains, with clear turquoise water and an old Liberty-style bath…
- Monte Pellegrino & Sanctuary of Santa Rosalia – A headland mountain on the north side of Palermo. Goethe called it 'the most beautiful cape in the world', and a cave shrine on its slope h…
- Capuchin Catacombs – Some 8,000 mummified bodies displayed in the underground vaults of a monastery, arranged by social rank. The best known is 'Sleeping Beauty…
- La Martorana & San Cataldo – Two neighbouring World Heritage churches: La Martorana, with Byzantine gold mosaics covering its walls, and San Cataldo, topped with three…
- San Giovanni degli Eremiti – A 12th-century monastery church beside the Norman Palace, with five red domes peeking out among palm and orange trees, and a serene cloiste…
- La Vucciria – Once Palermo's most famous market, now quiet by day and transformed into an open-air bar street at night, where young people come for drink…
- Mercato del Capo – An old market behind the Teatro Massimo, packed with fish, meat, fruit and vegetable stalls and street food. Its atmosphere is a little mor…
- Palazzo Abatellis (Regional Gallery of Sicily) – A gallery in a 15th-century Gothic-Renaissance palace, housing the huge fresco 'The Triumph of Death' and Antonello da Messina's 'Annunciat…
- Antonino Salinas Regional Archaeological Museum – One of Sicily's most important archaeological museums, holding the metopes of the Temple of Selinunte, along with Greek, Phoenician and Rom…
- Teatro Politeama Garibaldi – A Pompeian-style theatre in the centre of the new town, with a bronze chariot drawn by four horses crowning its roof. The square in front i…
- Orto Botanico di Palermo – A university botanic garden founded in 1789, with a Neoclassical greenhouse and a giant Australian banyan with aerial roots. An oasis in th…
- La Zisa – A 12th-century summer palace of the Norman kings, built in Arab style. The stalactite vaulting of the fountain hall is exquisite, and the b…
- Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri – A 14th-century noble castle that later served as the headquarters and prison of the Spanish Inquisition. Prisoners left prayers, poems and…
- Chiesa del Gesù (Casa Professa) – The first Jesuit church in Sicily, its interior covered with coloured marble inlays and stucco decoration. It is the ultimate expression of…
- Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Cita – A Baroque stucco masterpiece by the sculptor Giacomo Serpotta. Its white reliefs, including a battle scene from the Battle of Lepanto in 15…
- Santa Caterina Church & Monastery – A Baroque church beside Piazza Pretoria. Climbing to the monastery roof gives you a view over the old town's domes, and the cloister café s…
- Antonio Pasqualino International Puppet Museum – A museum of Sicilian puppetry and puppets from around the world, where you can watch a traditional puppet show telling the legends of Charl…
- Villa Palagonia (Bagheria) – An 18th-century noble villa 15 km east of Palermo, its walls lined with grotesque 'monster' statues, which Goethe wrote about in detail.
- Zingaro Nature Reserve – Sicily's first nature reserve. A car-free coastal path of about 7 km links several turquoise pebble coves, ideal for swimming and snorkelli…
- Scopello – A small seaside village beside the southern entrance of the Zingaro Reserve. An old tuna fishery and sea stacks standing offshore make up S…
- Soluntum (Solunto) – The ruins of a Phoenician-Hellenistic ancient city on the slopes of the Monte Catalfano headland, with surviving colonnades and mosaics ove…
Where to eat
- Antica Focacceria San Francesco – A Palermo institution founded in 1834, where you can sample classic street food right next to Piazza San Francesco.
- Trattoria Ai Cascinari – A family-run trattoria operating since 1949, featuring a daily changing menu known for traditional Palermitan flavors a…
- Nni Franco U Vastiddaru – A famous street food spot near Piazza Marina, renowned for its freshly made spleen sandwiches and panelle sandwiches.
- Trattoria Al Ferro di Cavallo – An affordable, historic trattoria opened in 1944, often packed with locals at lunch, where waiters rush out dishes as s…
- Bisso Bistrot – A bistro converted from an old bookstore next to Quattro Canti, open all day, offering a convenient location and fair p…
- Corona Trattoria – A family-run seafood trattoria in the Politeama district, spanning three generations, with a short menu that changes wi…
- Gagini Restaurant – A creative restaurant housed in the 16th-century workshop of sculptor Gagini, featured in the Michelin Guide and focusi…
Itineraries
- Classic Sicily Road Trip: West to East – Fly into Palermo and out of Catania, connecting ancient temples, Roman mosaics, Baroque towns, and Mount Etna.
- Car-Free Sicily: Train & Bus Itinerary – Explore the northern and eastern coasts using only trains and buses, from Palermo and Cefalù to Taormina and Syracuse.
- Western Sicily Coast & Egadi Islands – Fly into Palermo and out of Trapani, linking Zingaro hiking, Erice, salt pans, and Favignana.