Ouidah

A major port of the Atlantic slave trade and a holy city of Vodun; walk the Slave Route to the sea and the Gate of No Return, with the Python Temple and sacred forest right in town.

Ouidah lies in the Atlantique Department of Benin, about 40 km west of Cotonou, bounded by a lagoon to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the south. Between the 17th and 19th centuries it was one of the most important ports of the 'Slave Coast.' An estimated million Africans were shipped to the Americas from here, and Portugal, France, Britain and the Netherlands all built forts here. Today Ouidah is both a memorial to the Atlantic slave trade and the spiritual center of Vodun. The Python Temple in town faces the Catholic Basilica of the Immaculate Conception across a square, and the Kpasse sacred forest to the north is lined with brightly colored Vodun statues. The classic walking route starts at Chacha Square, the former slave auction ground, and the Portuguese Fort History Museum, then follows the roughly 4 km Slave Route past the Tree of Forgetting, the Zomai Monument and others, to the Gate of No Return by the sea. In town you can also visit the Zinsou Foundation's Villa Ajavon contemporary art museum and the Brazilian-style central mosque.

The best season is the dry season, November–March. On January 10, National Vodun Day (which in recent years has expanded into 'Vodun Days') brings large ceremonies and performances to the beach, so book accommodation in advance. April–July and September–October are the rainy seasons. Getting there: most visitors come by hired car or taxi from Cotonou, about 1 hour, and the trip is often combined with the Ganvié water village and Grand-Popo. Plan 1 day, or stay overnight to experience the seaside. Notes: photographing Vodun ceremonies and priests requires permission and may involve a fee. Waves and rip currents are strong, so don't swim in the sea. Benin requires an electronic visa applied for in advance, and yellow fever vaccination.

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