Oran

Algeria's second city and the birthplace of Raï music, where the hilltop Santa Cruz Fort overlooks a Mediterranean bay and French-built quarters mingle with Spanish forts.

Oran (Arabic: وهران) sits on the Mediterranean coast of northwestern Algeria and is the country's second-largest city and a major port, with a population of about 1.5 million. Founded in the 10th century by Andalusian merchants, it was ruled in turn by Spain (for most of 1509–1792), the Ottomans and France, leaving Spanish forts, Ottoman mosques and large French colonial quarters. It is also the birthplace of Raï music and the setting of Albert Camus's novel The Plague. The climate is Mediterranean: March–May and September–November are the most pleasant; July–August is hot and dry but also beach season, when the city and the western coast are at their busiest; winters are mild and rainy. Key areas: on Mount Murdjajo to the west, Santa Cruz Fort and its chapel of the Virgin overlook the entire bay; at its foot, the old Sidi El Houari quarter has the Pasha Mosque, the Bey's Palace and remains from the Spanish period; downtown centres on 1 November Square (formerly Place d'Armes), with the city hall, the regional theatre and the Promenade de Létang; the seafront boulevard (Front de Mer) is the place for an evening stroll; and the eastern district is home to the vast Abdelhamid Ibn Badis Mosque. On the west coast, Aïn El Turk, Cap Falcon, Les Andalouses beach and Madagh bay are popular summer escapes. Oran Ahmed Ben Bella Airport has flights to Algiers and to France, Spain and elsewhere, and trains run to Algiers (about 4–5 hours). The city has a tram; for Santa Cruz and the west coast, take a taxi or hire a driver. Plan on 2–3 days. Note: a visa is usually required for Algeria and must be applied for in advance; Arabic and French are the main languages; dress conservatively and get permission before entering mosques; opening hours at some sights are irregular, so check with your hotel before heading out.

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