Onomichi & Shimanami Kaido

A Seto Inland Sea port town of hillside lanes and temples and the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, which island-hops via bridges across Ikuchijima, Omishima and more to Imabari.

Onomichi lies on the Seto Inland Sea in southeastern Hiroshima Prefecture, squeezed between Mt. Senkoji and the narrow Onomichi Channel. Temples, stone-stepped lanes and old houses are stacked up the hillside; the town was a filming location for Tokyo Story and the "Onomichi Trilogy", and is recognized as Japan Heritage as a "town of slopes, temples and literature". It is also the northern starting point of the Shimanami Kaido (Nishiseto Expressway): this roughly 70 km bridge-and-island route runs via Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima and Oshima to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture on Shikoku, with a dedicated cycling lane along the bridges, and has been named by CNN one of the world's most beautiful cycling routes. Plan your visit in two parts. Spend a day in Onomichi: take the ropeway up to Senkoji Park for a panorama of the channel, walk down via the Path of Literature, Senkoji Temple, Cat Alley and the old-temple trail, then browse the Hondori shopping arcade and try Onomichi ramen. Then give the Shimanami Kaido one or two days, cycling or driving to link up Kosanji Temple, the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art and the lemon town of Setoda on Ikuchijima, the Innoshima Suigun Castle, Oyamazumi Shrine and the Tatara Bridge on Omishima, the Murakami Kaizoku Museum on Oshima, and finally Imabari Castle and the Towel Museum. The old port of Tomonoura, 20 minutes' drive east, is often combined with Onomichi. The best seasons are Mar–May and Oct–Nov, with cherry blossoms at Senkoji in April; Jul–Aug is hot and humid, and September brings frequent typhoons. Getting there: Onomichi Station on the JR Sanyo Line is about 1.5 hours from Hiroshima and about 20 minutes from Fukuyama; shinkansen stop at Shin-Onomichi Station. Bikes (including e-bikes) can be rented at Onomichi Port and on the islands along the route, with one-way drop-off available, and ferries or buses can take over when you tire. Note that the full ride is about 70 km with many uphill bridge approaches; beginners are advised to ride only as far as Ikuchijima and return by boat. The town's lanes have lots of stone steps, so wear comfortable shoes.

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