Nukus & Aral Sea

A desert city of "forbidden art", where the Savitsky Museum holds Soviet avant-garde treasures, and the base for off-road trips to the Moynaq ship graveyard and the Aral Sea.

Nukus is the capital of the Republic of Karakalpakstan in northwestern Uzbekistan, located in the lower Amu Darya delta and surrounded by the Kyzylkum Desert and the Ustyurt Plateau. The city itself was built in the Soviet era, and its biggest draw is the Savitsky Art Museum, with its large collection of banned Soviet avant-garde paintings. Nearby are ancient Khorezmian sites such as the Mizdakhan necropolis, Gyaur Kala fortress and the Chilpik Tower of Silence. About 200 km north, Moynaq is a symbol of the dried-up Aral Sea, with ships lying stranded in the desert; further northwest, you can go off-road to what remains of the Aral shoreline and spend the night in a yurt. Best seasons: Apr–May and Sep–Oct are pleasant; in Jun–Aug daytime temperatures often exceed 40°C, winter can drop to -20°C, and Aral Sea camps generally only operate from April to October. Getting there: direct flights from Tashkent to Nukus take about 2 hours, and there are also overnight trains; a taxi from Khiva or Urgench takes about 3 hours, with a stop at Chilpik on the way. Taxis are fine for sights in and around the city, but Moynaq and the Aral Sea require a private vehicle or an off-road tour. Suggested time: 1–2 days for Nukus and its surroundings; add a day for a return trip to Moynaq, or two days and one night for the Aral Sea. Carry cash, as signal and supplies are limited in remote areas.

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