Nuku Hiva

The main island and gateway of the Marquesas, where steep cliffs, waterfalls in deep valleys and ancient stone platform sites coexist. A remote island for experiencing original Polynesian culture.

Nuku Hiva is the largest island in the Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia. It lies about 1,400 km from Tahiti and serves as the archipelago's administrative centre and transport gateway. The whole island is built from ancient volcanoes. Its coastline consists of steep basalt cliffs and deeply cut valleys, with almost no coral reefs, so the scenery is wilder and more rugged than in the Society Islands. Taiohae, the capital in the bay of the southern volcanic crater, has the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, a seaside tiki plaza and a craft centre. Behind the town are the ancient ceremonial site of Koueva and the Muake viewpoint. Westward by boat is Daniel's Bay; a hike up the Hakaviha Valley reveals Vaipo Falls, which drop about 350 m. In the northeast, the Taipivai Valley is the setting of Melville's novel Typee. On the north coast, Hatiheu Bay has basalt pinnacles and the archaeological sites of Kamuihei and Hikokua. Crossing the mountains leads to Anaho Bay, a rare white-sand bay in the Marquesas. In the central Toovii Plateau, horse riding is popular. The climate is warm and humid year-round. May to October is relatively dry and suited to hiking, with steadier seas. The Marquesan Arts Festival is held roughly every four years. Getting there: fly from Papeete with Air Tahiti for about 3.5 hours to Nuku Hiva Airport on the northwest coast, then take a four-wheel-drive vehicle over the plateau for about 1.5–2 hours to Taiohae. You can also travel around the archipelago on the Aranui cargo-passenger ship. Public transport on the island is almost nonexistent, so book a guided tour or rent a four-wheel-drive. Prices are high and shops are few. Plan 3–5 days. Watch out for sandfly bites, respect the taboos of ancient sites, and do not climb onto the stone platforms.

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