Northwest Donegal
Ringed by Errigal, Glenveagh National Park and the cliffs of Horn Head, Dunfanaghy and Gweedore sit on the wildest stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way – and in the heartland of Irish-language traditional music.
Northwest Donegal lies in the far northwest corner of the island of Ireland, in County Donegal, Ulster. It is the wildest and least developed stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way, and one of Ireland's largest Irish-speaking areas (Gaeltacht). The region falls roughly into three parts. In the east, the village of Dunfanaghy is the natural base, with Horn Head's cliffs, Ards Forest, Marble Hill Beach and the Rosguill Atlantic Drive nearby; further east are the lighthouse on the Fanad Peninsula and Ballymastocker Bay. In the middle, Glenveagh National Park and Castle, Errigal and the Poisoned Glen make for great hiking and hillwalking. In the west is the Gweedore Gaeltacht, with Bloody Foreland, "Bád Eddie" (Eddie's Boat), Carrickfinn Beach and the ferry piers for Tory Island and Arranmore Island. The best time to visit is May–Sep, when days are long and ferries run normally; winters are windy and wet, island ferries are often cancelled and mountain weather is changeable. Getting around is mainly by car: Derry is about 1 hour away and Dublin about 4 hours, and Donegal Airport has flights to and from Dublin and Glasgow; buses are infrequent. Plan to stay 3–4 days. Country roads are narrow and sheep often wander onto them, so drive slowly. Traditional music and Irish-language songs in Gweedore's pubs at night are the most authentic experience here.
Top sights
- Glenveagh National Park & Castle – Ireland's second-largest national park, with a Victorian castle standing on the shore of a long, narrow lake, where formal gardens contrast…
- Errigal – The highest peak in County Donegal at 751 meters. Its conical quartzite slopes shimmer pink on clear days.
- Fanad Head Lighthouse – Rated one of the most beautiful lighthouses in the world. Its white tower stands on a cliff at the mouth of Lough Swilly, with wide views o…
- Poisoned Glen & Dunlewey Church – A glacial valley at the foot of Errigal Mountain, where the roofless ruins of Dunlewey old church, with its stone walls and graveyard again…
- Horn Head – A sea-cliff peninsula north of Dunfanaghy, where a loop drive offers views of towering cliffs, seabirds and, in the distance, Tory Island.
- Ards Forest Park – A forest park on the Inishowen-side peninsula of the bay with clearly marked trails leading to beaches, salt marshes and dunes, ideal for a…
- Tory Island – A remote island about 14 km off the coast that keeps its Irish-language traditions, and which still elects a "King" to welcome visitors.
- Arranmore Island – The largest inhabited island in Donegal, reached by a ferry of only about 20 minutes, with a cliff-and-lighthouse coastal walk around the i…
- Doe Castle – A 16th-century tower castle surrounded by sea on three sides, once a stronghold of the MacSweeney clan, with its moat and walls well preser…
- Murder Hole Beach (Boyeeghter Bay) – A hidden bay below Melmore Head, where cliffs, rocks and emerald water make one of the most striking beaches on the north coast.
- Ballymastocker Bay (Portsalon Beach) – A golden, curved beach on the Fanad Peninsula that was once named the second most beautiful beach in the world by The Observer, with stunni…
- Atlantic Drive (Rosguill Peninsula) – A roughly 12 km coastal loop around the Rosguill Peninsula, passing bays, white-sand beaches and moorland, and one of the most beautiful sh…
- Dunfanaghy Village & Workhouse – The most popular base town in northwest Donegal, with a colourful old main street, a bay and a workhouse museum that tells the story of the…
- Marble Hill Strand – A shallow, calm sandy beach inside Sheephaven Bay, a popular spot for family swimming, learning to surf and stand-up paddleboarding.
- Bád Eddie (Bunbeg Shipwreck) – The rusting wreck of a fishing boat stranded on Bunbeg beach, set against Errigal Mountain, one of the most photogenic landmarks in Donegal.
- Bloody Foreland – A headland at the far northwest corner of Ireland, named for the red granite that glows blood-red in the sunset, with a coast road offering…
- Muckish Mountain – A flat-topped mountain shaped like a pig's back, with a summit reached by an old miners' path that overlooks the whole northwest coast and…
- Leo's Tavern – An old pub run by the Doherty family, the family behind the Clannad band and home of singer Enya, its walls covered with gold records, with…
- Carrickfinn Beach – A Blue Flag beach beside Donegal Airport, with fine white sand and clear water, with views of Errigal Mountain and the offshore islands.
Where to eat
- Lizzie's Diner – A popular little eatery on Dunfanaghy's main street, known for seafood chowder and fish and chips, with generous portio…
- Leo's Tavern – The old family pub of Enya and the band Clannad, its walls covered in gold records, with traditional music in the eveni…
- The Rusty Oven – A wood-fired sourdough pizzeria hidden in the back garden of Patsy Dan's pub, with inventive toppings that many people…
- Teac Jack – A family hotel and pub open since 1963, hosting céilí dances every Tuesday, with generous portions of seafood chowder a…
Itineraries
- Ultimate Wild Atlantic Way – Drive the entire west coast from north to south, from Donegal to Kinsale, taking in sea cliffs, islands, and peninsulas.
- Northern Ireland & Northwest Loop – Head north from Dublin to Belfast and the Giant's Causeway, then loop back to Galway via Donegal and Mayo.