Nkhata Bay
A tropical little harbour on the northern shores of Lake Malawi, where you can snorkel among cichlids in rocky coves and catch the Ilala ferry to Likoma Island.
Nkhata Bay sits on the western shore of Lake Malawi in Malawi's Northern Region, a small harbour cradled by rocky headlands and lush green hillsides, and one of the country's best-known backpacker hangouts. Lake Malawi is Africa's third-largest lake, with clear water home to more than a thousand species of colourful endemic cichlids, which you can see just by snorkelling off the rocky shore of the bay. Life moves slowly here: most visitors stay in wooden lodges built into the hillsides of the headlands, spending their days swimming, snorkelling and kayaking and their evenings watching the sunset from lake-view bars.
The best time to visit is the dry season from May to November, when the lake is clear and the roads are easy; September to November is hot, while the rainy season from December to April brings thunderstorms and muddy dirt roads, but the scenery is at its greenest.
Getting around: the town's harbour and Chikale Beach just to the south are the heart of things, and the local market by the port offers a glimpse of fishing-village life. Heading south along the M5, the Chintheche lakeshore and Kande Beach have quieter, longer stretches of sand, and you can stop by the old Bandawe Mission on the way; heading west via Mzuzu takes you up to the cool pine forests of the Viphya Plateau. Out in the lake, Likoma Island lies close to Mozambique and is home to the huge St Peter's Cathedral; getting there means taking the weekly Ilala ferry or a small plane and staying overnight on the island.
Getting there: about 1 hour by minibus from Mzuzu, or around 6–7 hours by long-distance bus from Lilongwe. Plan on 3–4 days. Note: some parts of the lake carry a risk of bilharzia (schistosomiasis), so after spending a lot of time in the water, consult a doctor about preventive treatment; cash is king here, so withdraw money in Mzuzu.
Top sights
- Nkhata Bay Harbour – A small harbor on Lake Malawi, enclosed by rocky headlands. Fishing boats, hillside wooden guesthouses and lakeside bars make up a slow-pac…
- Chikale Beach – A golden sandy lakeside beach just south of town, with clear water and small waves. It is good for swimming, snorkeling and kayak rental, a…
- Snorkelling & Kayaking in Nkhata Bay – Snorkel off the rocky shores of the bay to see Lake Malawi's endemic cichlids, or paddle a kayak along the lakeshore to visit fishing villa…
- Nkhata Bay Market – A lively local market by the harbour selling fresh fish, cassava, tropical fruit and wooden handicrafts.
- Kande Beach – A long sandy beach about 45 km south of Nkhata Bay, a classic stop on trans-African overland truck tours, with horse rides into the lake an…
- Chintheche Strip – A tranquil stretch of lakeshore south of Nkhata Bay, with long white beaches and lakeside cottages. It is quieter than the bay and ideal fo…
- Bandawe Mission – A mission station founded on the lakeshore in 1881 by the Livingstonia Mission, preserving a red-brick church and early missionary graves.
- Viphya Plateau – A pine-forested plateau above 1,500 m on the western side of the lake. It is cool and pleasant, with hiking, mountain biking and forest cab…
- Likoma Island – A Lake Malawi island close to the Mozambique side, with the massive St Peter's Cathedral, white-sand bays and baobab trees. Reached by the…
Where to eat
- Mayoka Village Restaurant – The restaurant and bar of a lakeside lodge in Nkhata Bay, with brick-oven pizza on Wednesday and Sunday nights, a Frida…
- Butterfly Space Eco Lodge Restaurant – A lakeside restaurant at a community-focused, non-profit eco-lodge, serving local and international dishes. Wood-fired…
Itineraries
- Northern Malawi Lakeshore & Highlands – Head north to Nkhata Bay, ascend the Livingstonia escarpment, and return south along the lakeshore to Senga Bay
- Victoria Falls, South Luangwa & Likoma Island – See Victoria Falls in Zambia, go walking safaris in South Luangwa, and end on an island in Lake Malawi