Nizwa & Jebel Akhdar

Oman’s historic inland capital, with Nizwa Fort and the Friday goat market, UNESCO-listed Bahla Fort, Jebel Shams’ “Grand Canyon of Arabia,” and the rose terraces of Jebel Akhdar.

Nizwa lies in Oman’s interior, about 160 km southwest of Muscat, in a date-palm oasis at the southern foot of the Hajar Mountains. It was once Oman’s capital and a centre of Islamic learning. Within an hour or two’s drive of Nizwa lies the best of Oman’s interior scenery. In town are Nizwa Fort, the old souq and the Friday-morning livestock market. To the west are the UNESCO-listed Bahla Fort and Jabreen Castle with its painted ceilings. To the northwest, via the Tanuf ruins, the mud-brick village of Hamra and the old village of Misfat Al Abriyyin, you can drive all the way up to Jebel Shams, Oman’s highest peak, overlooking Wadi Ghul, known as the “Grand Canyon of Arabia.” To the northeast is Jebel Akhdar (the Green Mountain), at about 2,000 m, famed for its spring roses and summer pomegranates and a popular summer retreat. Best season: October to April, with warm, dry days. From May to September the plains can reach 45°C, though Jebel Akhdar and Jebel Shams stay cooler; in winter summit nights approach 0°C, so bring a thick jacket. Getting there: you will almost certainly need to self-drive or hire a car; Muscat to Nizwa is about 2 hours by highway. A 4WD is mandatory for Jebel Akhdar, and the route passes a police checkpoint; the final stretch to Jebel Shams is gravel, so 4WD is also recommended. Suggested duration: 3–4 days—1 day for Nizwa, Bahla and Jabreen; 1–2 days for Hamra, Misfat and Jebel Shams; 1 day for Jebel Akhdar. Notes: Oman is a Muslim country, so cover shoulders and knees when visiting old villages and souqs; forts usually open only half a day on Friday mornings; many restaurants are closed during the day in Ramadan.

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