Niš

Birthplace of Constantine the Great, where an Ottoman fortress, the Skull Tower and the Roman ruins of Mediana stand side by side, with the Sićevo Gorge nearby for hiking and climbing.

Niš lies on the Nišava River in southern Serbia. It is the country's third-largest city and one of the oldest cities in the Balkans. Known in Roman times as Naissus, it was the birthplace of Constantine the Great; it later passed through Byzantine, Bulgarian and Ottoman rule before becoming part of Serbia in 1878. The city is compact, and its sights fall into three groups. First, Roman and Ottoman heritage, such as Niš Fortress, the Roman villa ruins at Mediana and the archaeological hall of the National Museum. Second, memories of war, including the Skull Tower built in 1809 from the skulls of insurgents, the Čegar battle monument, and the WWII Red Cross concentration camp and Bubanj Memorial Park. Third, nature on the outskirts: the spa town of Niška Banja to the east, plus the Sićevo and Jelašnica gorges, which are good for hiking and rock climbing.

The best season is Apr–Oct. Summers are hot, and in August the fortress hosts music and film festivals; winters are colder, but the city can still be explored as usual. The centre revolves around King Milan Square; cross the bridge and you reach the fortress. Kazandžijsko Sokače (Coppersmiths' Alley) is lined with grill restaurants, and Niš-style grilled meat is famous throughout Serbia.

Getting there: Niš Constantine the Great Airport has budget flights to destinations around Europe, and the bus from Belgrade takes about 3 hours. Central sights are walkable, but you'll need a bus or taxi for the Skull Tower, Mediana and Bubanj. Allow 2 days: one for the city's historic sites and one for the gorges or the spa; with a car, add a day for the UNESCO-listed Felix Romuliana palace or Sokobanja. Museums are generally closed on Mondays.

Top sights

• Niš Fortress – A well-preserved Ottoman stone fortress on the banks of the Nišava River. Its gates, walls and parkland form the city's living room.
• Skull Tower – A tower built from the skulls of Serbian insurgents killed by the Ottomans in 1809. Fifty-eight skulls remain on display, making it Niš's m…
• Sićevo Gorge – A 17-km limestone gorge carved by the Nišava River. It is lined with viewpoints, hiking trails and climbing routes, and is Niš's most popul…
• Mediana – The ruins of a Roman imperial villa on the outskirts of Naissus, birthplace of Constantine the Great. It is famed for its extensive floor m…
• Red Cross Concentration Camp – The original site of a Nazi concentration camp in Niš during World War II. The barracks and cells are preserved, and the memorial records t…
• Bubanj Memorial Park – A memorial park on the World War II execution site. Three giant clenched-fist sculptures symbolize resistance, and the park is one of the m…
• Kazandžijsko Sokače – A historic alley in the city center that preserves Ottoman-era character. Once home to coppersmiths, it is now a food street lined with gri…
• King Milan Square – The central square of Niš, home to the Liberators' Monument. It connects the pedestrian street Obrenovićeva with the fortress bridge.
• Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, Niš – Niš's Orthodox cathedral, built in the late 19th century. Its iconostasis and murals were repainted after a fire.
• Čegar Memorial – The site of the 1809 Battle of Čegar, where Stevan Sindjelić detonated the powder magazine and perished along with the enemy. A memorial to…
• National Museum Niš – Archaeological Hall – A city-center archaeology gallery displaying Roman gold and silver objects, sculptures and Constantine-era artifacts unearthed from ancient…
• Niška Banja – A hot-spring spa town 10 km east of Niš, with a therapy center, a park and hillside trails. It is a weekend getaway for locals.
• Jelašnica Gorge – A narrow limestone gorge near Niška Banja with towering cliffs. It is a rock-climbing destination in southern Serbia.
• Cerje Cave – A large karst cave system on Niš's northern outskirts. The open section has a visitor center and lighting, and its stalactite formations ar…
• Sokobanja – A famous Serbian spa town with the ruins of the medieval Sokograd fortress on the cliffs outside town and waterfalls on the Moravica River.
• Felix Romuliana (Gamzigrad) – A palace and memorial complex built by Roman emperor Galerius in his later years. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Where to eat

• Kafana Mrak – Long-established grill tavern on the outskirts of Niš, opened in 1991 and rated 12/20 by Gault&Millau. Lamb pljeskavica…
• Pekara Anton – Niš's celebrated burek shop, founded in 1993 and often called the best burek in all of Serbia.
• Nišlijska Mehana – One of Niš's best-known traditional restaurants, featured by Gault&Millau. It serves local classics and nearly always r…
• Kafana Kod Rajka – Popular tavern on Coppersmiths' Lane in Niš's old town. Its garden overlooks the cobbled street, and the kajmak-baked r…

Itineraries

• Eastern Serbia Route: Danube Iron Gates and Niš – Drive east along the Danube to explore fortresses, gorges, and a Roman palace, returning to the capital via Niš.
• Grand Serbia Loop – Cover the capital, Vojvodina, the Danube Gorges, southern Niš, and the western mountains in one trip.