Ningwu

The Guancen Mountains of northwestern Shanxi: Luya Mountain's sea of forest, the Ten-Thousand-Year Ice Cave, Heyeping meadow and the Tianchi lake group, source of the Fen River and a summer escape.

Ningwu County lies in the Guancen Mountains of northwestern Xinzhou, Shanxi, and is the source of the Fen River. With high forest cover and a high average elevation, it is cool in summer and a well-known summer retreat in North China. The scenic areas are mostly clustered around Dongzhai Town, southwest of the county seat, so it works well to base yourself in Dongzhai and see everything in 2 days. Core attractions include: Luya Mountain (a national nature reserve and habitat of the brown eared pheasant), together with Malun Grassland and the Heyeping subalpine meadow, good for hiking and for self-driving to see seas of clouds; the Ten-Thousand-Year Ice Cave, which freezes year-round and is a rarity in China; Ningwu Tianchi (Mayinghai), a group of alpine lakes; Wanghuagou Hanging Village, built on a sheer cliff; and Leiming Temple at the Fen River source, the Shimen hanging coffins and Ninghua Ancient City, which reflect the history of the upper Fen River. In the county seat stands the Drum Tower of Ningwu Pass, one of the Ming-dynasty "Outer Three Passes." The best season is Jun–Sep, with meadow blooms and cool weather at their best in Jul–Aug and a brief burst of autumn color in early October. Winter is bitterly cold in the mountains and some scenic-area roads close, but the ice cave can still be visited. Getting there: from Taiyuan, buses and trains (the Beitongpu Railway) run to Ningwu County seat, from where you transfer or charter a car to Dongzhai. Distances between sights are long, so self-driving is recommended. Temperatures swing widely between morning and evening in the mountains, so bring a jacket; weather at high spots such as Heyeping is changeable.

Top sights

• Luya Mountain – One of the main peaks of the Guancen Mountains, where North China larch forests meet high alpine meadows. It is an important habitat for th…
• Wannian Ice Cave – A Quaternary ice cave in Ningwu County where ice persists year-round. Icicles and ice waterfalls glisten inside, and it stays bitterly cold…
• Malun Grassland – A subalpine meadow over 2,000 meters high beside Luya Mountain, carpeted with wildflowers in summer and offering views of the Luya peaks.
• Source of the Fen River (Leiming Temple) – The source of the Fen River, known as the Mother River of Shanxi, where spring water emerges from beneath the cliffs of Leiming Temple, wit…
• Ningwu Pass – One of the 'Outer Three Passes' of the Great Wall of the Ming dynasty. The Drum Tower and surviving city walls in Ningwu County town bear w…
• Ningwu Tianchi Lake (Mayinghai) – The largest of the high-altitude lakes on the summit of the Guancen Mountains, at about 1,800 meters, surrounded by meadows and forest.
• Wanghuagou Hanging Village – An ancient village built on sheer cliffs, with wooden walkways linking its courtyards, known as the 'village in the sky'.
• Heyeping Subalpine Meadow – The main summit plateau of the Guancen Mountains at about 2,780 meters, one of the largest subalpine meadows in North China, known for sea-…
• Ninghua Ancient Town – An ancient fortified town in the upper Fen River valley, a frontier stronghold between the Song and Liao, with surviving city wall sections…
• Shimen Hanging Coffins – Rare hanging coffin remains in northern China, with wooden coffins and walkway traces on the cliff face, plus an overlook walkway.

Where to eat

• Larch Restaurant – A Shanxi restaurant on Siyuan Street in Dongzhai Town at the foot of Mount Luya. Its signatures are hand-made oat-flour…
• Lao Ningwu Shifu – A popular home-style restaurant on Fenghuang West Street in Ningwu County, known for guoyourou, Bawang eggplant and mil…

Itineraries

• Northern Shanxi: Great Wall, Yellow River & Summer Escape Loop – Depart from Taiyuan to loop through Yanmen Pass, Laoniuwan, and Mount Luya, combining the Great Wall, the Yellow River…