Nikko

A World Heritage sacred site near Tokyo: Toshogu, resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, plus Kegon Falls and autumn leaves at Lake Chuzenji — great as a day trip or with a night at a hot spring.

Nikko lies in northwestern Tochigi Prefecture, about 140 km from Tokyo, and is the resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate. The "Shrines and Temples of Nikko" (Toshogu, Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji, together known as the "two shrines and one temple") were inscribed as a World Cultural Heritage Site in 1999; further west and uphill lies Okunikko in Nikko National Park, with Mount Nantai, Lake Chuzenji, Kegon Falls and the Senjogahara Marsh. The Japanese saying "Don't say kekko (magnificent) until you've seen Nikko" refers to this place.

Best seasons: October is foliage season, with colors moving from Okunikko (early October) down to the town (late October–early November); the Irohazaka road and Lake Chuzenji are at their finest, but weekend traffic is heavy. Fresh greenery and azaleas in May and cool summers (Okunikko sits at about 1,270 m, 5–8°C cooler than Tokyo) are also great; in winter Okunikko is snowbound and some facilities close, but it's a good time for hot springs.

Areas to explore: ① the World Heritage area (Shinkyo Bridge – Rinnoji – Toshogu – Futarasan Shrine – Taiyuin, all walkable); ② Okunikko (Irohazaka – Akechidaira – Kegon Falls – Lake Chuzenji – Ryuzu Falls – Senjogahara); ③ Kinugawa Onsen (hot spring inns, Edo Wonderland theme park, river cruises).

Getting there: from Asakusa in Tokyo, the Tobu limited express SPACIA X / Kegon takes about 1 hour 50 minutes to Tobu-Nikko Station; alternatively, take the JR shinkansen to Utsunomiya and change to the JR Nikko Line. Tobu's NIKKO PASS covers round-trip travel and local buses and is good value. Tobu buses from town to Okunikko take about 50 minutes. Allow 2 days: the World Heritage area on day one and Okunikko on day two, staying overnight by Lake Chuzenji or at Kinugawa Onsen. Note: in foliage season, traffic on Irohazaka often backs up for 1–2 hours, so try to set off before 8 am; the shrines and temples have many steps, so wear comfortable shoes.

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