Nicosia
The world's last divided capital: Venetian walls ring the old town, and you can walk across the Green Line to see churches, mosques and caravanserais on both sides in a single day.
Nicosia (Greek: Λευκωσία, Turkish: Lefkoşa) is the capital of Cyprus, set on the Mesaoria plain in the centre of the island. It is also the world's last divided capital: since 1974 the UN buffer zone, the "Green Line", has run through the old town, with the south belonging to the Republic of Cyprus and the north administered by the Turkish Cypriot authorities of Northern Cyprus. Visitors can walk back and forth at crossing points such as Ledra Street with a passport or EU ID card, seeing Orthodox churches, Ottoman mosques and caravanserais all in one day.
The heart of the city is the old town enclosed by the star-shaped walls built by the Venetians in 1567. About 1.5 km across, it is easy to explore on foot. In the south are the Cyprus Museum, Ledra Street, Phaneromeni Church, the Archbishop's Palace and St John's Cathedral, and the Leventis Municipal Museum; in the north are the Selimiye Mosque (formerly the Cathedral of Saint Sophia), the Büyük Han, the Bedesten and the Mevlevi Tekke. Outside the walls lie the modern city and its art galleries.
The best seasons are Mar–May and Oct–Nov; from June to September daytime temperatures often reach 40°C, so sightsee early in the morning and in the evening. Getting there: the nearest airport is Larnaca (about 50 km, with airport buses), and Ercan Airport serves the north; intercity buses link Nicosia with Limassol and Paphos. Allow 1–2 days. About 40 km southwest, in the Troodos foothills, are Machairas Monastery and the old village of Fikardou. Note that the two sides use different currencies (euro / Turkish lira), rental cars crossing the line need separate insurance, and photographing military installations in the buffer zone is prohibited.
Top sights
- Cyprus Museum – Cyprus's largest and oldest archaeological museum, whose collection traces the island's nine thousand years of history from the Neolithic t…
- Venetian Walls & Eleftheria Square – Star-shaped walls built by the Venetians in 1567 encircle the Old City, with 11 heart-shaped bastions still standing. Eleftheria Square was…
- Ledra Street & Crossing Point – A pedestrian shopping street running through the Old City from north to south. At its northern end, a pedestrian crossing point over the UN…
- Büyük Han – Cyprus's largest caravanserai, built by the Ottomans in 1572. Its courtyard, enclosed by two levels of arcades, is home to craft shops and…
- Selimiye Mosque (Cathedral of Saint Sophia) – A 13th–14th century French Gothic cathedral that served as the coronation church of the Lusignan kings. Two minarets were added after 1570…
- Bedesten (St Nicholas Church) – A medieval church beside Selimiye Mosque, converted by the Ottomans into a covered market, and restored to win the Europa Nostra Award.
- Bandabulya (Municipal Market) – A historic municipal market in North Nicosia dating from the 1930s, with stalls selling Turkish delight, spices, halloumi and handicrafts.
- Kumarcılar Han – A 17th-century 'Gamblers' Inn' beside the Great Caravanserai. Its stone arcaded courtyard has been restored and now houses popular bars and…
- Atatürk Square & Venetian Column – The central square of North Nicosia, where a grey granite column brought from ancient Salamis by the Venetians stands, surrounded by coloni…
- Mevlevi Tekke Museum – A 17th-century lodge of the Sufi Mevlevi order, known for its whirling dance. It displays instruments and costumes and has more than ten mu…
- Kyrenia Gate – The northern gate of the Venetian walls, with a gatehouse and inscriptions added under Ottoman rule. After British-era road cuts on both si…
- Ömeriye Mosque & Hammam – A mosque converted from a 14th-century Augustinian church, with a minaret offering views over the old town. The restored Turkish bath besid…
- St. John's Cathedral – The Eastern Orthodox cathedral completed in 1662. Its exterior is plain, but the interior is covered with 18th-century murals and a gilded…
- Archbishop's Palace & Byzantine Museum – A neo-Byzantine Archbishop's Palace housing the Byzantine Museum, which holds the island's richest collection of icons and the repatriated…
- House of Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios – An 18th-century mansion of an Ottoman-era chief dragoman, Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios. It is the best-preserved Ottoman house in the old town…
- Faneromeni Church & Square – The largest Orthodox church in the old town, with historic schools on the square and cafés and a bar street popular with young people.
- Laiki Geitonia – A restored traditional pedestrian quarter beside Eleftheria Square, with stone houses and wooden balconies, plus tavernas, craft shops and…
- Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia – A free city history museum that traces the divided capital from prehistory to the present. It once won the European Museum of the Year awar…
- A. G. Leventis Gallery – A private art gallery opened in 2014, with works by Cypriot, Greek and European masters including Canaletto, Renoir and Chagall.
- Famagusta Gate – The eastern gate of the Venetian walls. Its long vaulted passage now houses a cultural centre that hosts exhibitions and concerts.
- Panagia Chrysaliniotissa Church & Quarter – A quiet neighbourhood around Nicosia's oldest Byzantine church, beside the Green Line. Its restored old houses and craft workshops are wort…
- Shacolas Tower Observatory – An observation deck on the top floor of a building on Ledra Street, with 360-degree views of the divided old town, the city walls and the K…
- Machairas Monastery – A 12th-century Orthodox monastery on the eastern foothills of the Troodos. Its buildings on the forested hillside house a revered icon of t…
- Fikardou – A mountain village designated as a protected monument as a whole. Its stone houses from the 16th century onward, wooden balconies and rural…
- Tamassos – The ruins of Tamassos, an ancient copper-rich city-kingdom of Cyprus, preserving 6th-century BC royal tombs built of stone in imitation of…
- Kykkos Monastery – Cyprus's wealthiest and most famous monastery, at over 1,300 metres on the western side of the Troodos, with gold-mosaic cloisters and a re…
- Kakopetria – A traditional village on the northern foot of the Troodos, with old timber houses built along the river. It is a base for visiting the pain…
- Church of St Nicholas of the Roof – One of the World Heritage painted churches of the Troodos, with murals layered from the 11th to 17th centuries, under a steep wooden-shingl…
- Panagia Phorbiotissa (Asinou) – A World Heritage church in a valley outside the village of Nikitari, whose frescoes from 1105 onward are among Cyprus's most complete Byzan…
- Vouni Palace – The ruins of a Persian-era palace on a hilltop on the northwest coast, built around 500 BC, with wide-open sea views on three sides.
Where to eat
- Zanettos Tavern – Founded in 1938 and said to be Cyprus's oldest tavern. There is no menu; a fixed-price meze arrives dish after dish.
- Piatsa Gourounaki – Popular charcoal souvlaki spot on Faneromenis Street in the Old Town. Cheap, generous and loved by locals.
- Sedirhan Restaurant, Büyük Han – Affordable restaurant in the arcades of the 16th-century Büyük Han in North Nicosia, serving Turkish Cypriot pasta and…
- Pyxida Fish Tavern – One of Nicosia's best-known fish tavernas, famous for fresh fish, fish soup and seafood meze, and a top choice for busi…
- Matthaios Home Cooking – Father-and-daughter eatery beside Faneromeni Church, open only for breakfast and lunch, serving Cypriot home-style stew…
- Kathodon Greek Tavern – Greek tavern at the end of Ledra Street, right beside the crossing point, with live Greek music every evening.
Itineraries
- Classic Cyprus Loop: West to East – Enter via Paphos and exit via Larnaca, connecting mosaic ruins, the Blue Lagoon, Troodos mountain villages, and Nicosia.
- Southern Cyprus Panoramic Slow Loop – From Akamas in the west to Cape Greco in the east, with two nights in the mountains and a relaxed stay in Nicosia.
- Troodos Painted Churches & Wine Villages – Discover World Heritage painted churches across three valleys, hike mountain waterfalls, and descend through wine villa…
- Akamas Coast & Troodos Mountains Hiking – Stay in Polis for western coastal trails, then head up to the Marathasa Valley for ridge hikes and painted churches.
- Northern Cyprus Coast & Karpas Peninsula – Explore the north side of the Green Line, visiting Kyrenia's ancient harbor, mountaintop castles, and the remote coast…