Nan

A tranquil old town in northern Thailand with Wat Phumin's 'whispering' mural, ancient mountain salt wells, seas of clouds and starry skies, at an even slower pace than Chiang Mai.

Nan lies in northern Thailand on the upper reaches of the Nan River, bordering Laos. The provincial capital, about 330 km from Chiang Mai, was the seat of the ancient Nan kingdom for several centuries from the 14th century on and preserves a blend of Lanna and Tai Lue culture. In the old town center you can walk between Wat Phumin (home of the 'whispering' mural), Nan National Museum, Wat Phra That Chang Kham, Wat Ming Mueang and Wat Hua Khuang; from Friday to Sunday evenings a walking-street night market sets up in front of Wat Phumin. Wat Phra That Chae Haeng on a hill east of town and the big Buddha at Wat Phra That Khao Noi to the west are great sunset spots. Beyond town there are two routes: south to Doi Samer Dao in Si Nan National Park (seas of clouds and starry skies) and the Sao Din Na Noi earth pillars; and northeast over the mountains to the ancient salt wells of Bo Kluea, Sapan village and Doi Phu Kha National Park, where the winding roads make an overnight stay worthwhile. Along the way you can stop at Wat Nong Bua for its Tai Lue murals and the Riverside Art Gallery. The best time is the cool season from Nov to Feb, with morning seas of clouds in the mountains and the chomphu phu kha (Bretschneidera) trees blooming on Doi Phu Kha in Jan–Feb; Mar–Apr is hot with haze from crop burning, and the Jun–Oct rainy season makes mountain roads slippery. Getting there: direct flights from Bangkok take about 1.5 hours, or take a bus from Chiang Mai (about 6 hours). In town you can rent a bicycle or motorbike; for the countryside, hire a car with driver or drive yourself. Plan on staying 3–4 days.

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