Skeleton Coast & Hoanib
A desolate coast where the desert runs straight into the Atlantic. Fly-in camps give access to desert elephants, seal colonies and shipwrecks.
This destination covers the northern Skeleton Coast in Namibia’s northwestern Kunene Region and the Hoanib and Hoarusib river valleys inland, stretching roughly from Terrace Bay north to the Kunene River mouth, and inland as far as Sesfontein and Purros. Here the Namib Desert meets the Atlantic: the coast is shrouded year-round in thick fog from the cold ocean current, and shipwrecks and whale bones lie scattered on the beaches. Dry seasonal rivers cut green corridors through the desert, sustaining desert-adapted elephants, lions, giraffes and oryx. There are two ways to explore. The first is to stay at a fly-in camp in the Hoanib valley (about 2 hours by light aircraft from Windhoek or Swakopmund), where guides drive you to track desert elephants and desert lions, you fly over the coast to see shipwrecks and the Cape Frio seal colony, and you can visit the Mowe Bay research station. The second is a self-drive 4WD trip: from Sesfontein, head north along the Hoanib riverbed and through Purros, camping along the way, with at least two vehicles travelling together. Terrace Bay in the southern section can be reached by self-drive from Swakopmund along the C34 salt road. In the northern section (north of Mowe Bay), self-driving is not permitted in the national park, and access is only by special-permit fly-in expeditions. Best season: May to October, when temperatures are cool and animals gather in the river valleys; the coast is foggy and cool all year. Suggested duration: 3–4 days. Notes: riverbed sections have deep sand and occasional floods in the rainy season, so travel in convoy and carry a satellite phone; desert elephants are sensitive, so keep at least 50 m away; community conservancies such as Purros charge management fees; park gates do not let vehicles through after 3 pm.
Top sights
- Skeleton Coast – A fog-shrouded, desolate coastline strewn with shipwrecks and whale bones, home to a seal reserve of 100,000 seals. The northern section is…
- Hoanib River Valley – A seasonal river valley in the desert, the best place to see desert elephants, desert lions and giraffes, and home to fly-in camps.
- Cape Cross Seal Reserve – One of the largest fur seal colonies in the southern hemisphere, where tens of thousands of Cape fur seals crowd the rocks, with a replica…
- Khowarib Gorge – A canyon cut by the upper Hoanib River, with year-round springs and steep cliffs. It is the gateway to the river valley and a hiking spot.
- Möwe Bay – A ranger and marine research station in Skeleton Coast National Park, with a small museum displaying shipwreck relics and whale bones.
- Cape Frio Seal Colony – A cape in the northern Skeleton Coast where tens of thousands of Cape fur seals crowd the rocks. It can only be reached on a flying tour.
- Fort Sesfontein – A white castle built by German troops in 1896, now a lodge surrounded by palms and a base for exploring the Hoanib River valley.
- Purros – A small village on the Hoarusib River inside a community conservancy, where you can visit Himba and Herero settlements. Desert elephants of…
- Hoarusib River Valley – A canyon riverbed below Purros, with towering mudstone 'clay castles' and flowing water. It is a classic 4WD route.
- Terrace Bay – The northernmost point in Skeleton Coast National Park reachable by self-drive: a desolate beach, dunes and fishing camp, with occasional j…
- Ongongo Waterfall – A waterfall and pool of warm spring water in a valley near Warmquelle where you can swim. It is a rare oasis in the desert.
- Ugabmund Gate (Skeleton Coast Park southern gate) – The southern gateway to Skeleton Coast National Park. The skull-and-crossbones motif on its iron gates is the most famous photo op on the e…
Where to eat
- Shipwreck Lodge Restaurant – The restaurant of a lodge shaped like a shipwreck, deep inside Skeleton Coast National Park and open to guests only. It…
- Fort Sesfontein Restaurant – A lodge restaurant in a former fort from the German colonial era, serving casual lunches in a palm-shaded courtyard and…
- Khowarib Lodge Restaurant – A lodge restaurant in the Khowarib Gorge on the Hoanib River, serving pizza and burgers at lunch and a fixed three-cour…
Itineraries
- Kaokoland Himba & Kunene 4x4 Route – Drive north by 4x4 through Damaraland, Sesfontein, and Epupa Falls, ending with a traverse of Etosha from the west gate.