Kaokoland (Opuwo)

The homeland of Namibia’s Himba people. Use Opuwo as a base to visit semi-nomadic communities who coat themselves in red ochre, then head north to see Epupa Falls on the Kunene River.

Kaokoland is the traditional name for the northern part of the Kunene Region in Namibia’s far northwest. It is bounded by the Kunene River and Angola to the north and the Skeleton Coast to the west, and is home to the Himba and Herero peoples. It is also one of the most sparsely populated and least developed parts of Namibia. The regional capital, Opuwo, is the only town, with supermarkets, fuel stations, banks and several lodges. On its streets you can see Himba women coated in red ochre, Herero women in Victorian-style long dresses and residents in modern clothes, and it is the base for visiting Himba villages. There are three main parts to a visit. First, around Opuwo: join a local guide to visit nearby Himba villages, browse the market and climb to a lodge hilltop for sunset. Second, about 180 km north on gravel roads to Epupa Falls on the Kunene River, staying at a riverside camp among the falls and baobab trees. Third, about 140 km northeast to Ruacana Falls, which are at their fullest in March and April. On the way south from Etosha’s western gate, you can also stop at the Otjikandero Himba village near Kamanjab. Deeper in, Van Zyl’s Pass and the Marienfluss Valley are multi-day off-road expeditions requiring a convoy of 4WD vehicles. Best season: the dry season from May to October; in March and April the waterfalls are fuller but some river crossings are impassable. Getting there: about 8–9 hours’ drive from Windhoek (via Outjo and Kamanjab), or about 250 km north from Galton Gate on Etosha’s western side. Suggested stay: 2–4 days. Notes: fuel is very scarce outside Opuwo, so fill up; when visiting villages, get consent through your guide before taking photos, and suitable gifts are maize meal, sugar and cooking oil; never try to force a crossing when rivers are in flood in the rainy season.

Top sights

• Himba Villages – The 'red earth people' of the semi-nomadic Himba tribe in the Kunene Region, known for coating their bodies in ochre and butterfat and for…
• Epupa Falls – A series of waterfalls where the Kunene River tumbles over the Namibia–Angola border, surrounded by baobab trees and palms. It is the most…
• Opuwo – The only town in Kaokoland, where Himba, Herero and modern residents share the same streets; the hub for visiting villages and restocking s…
• Opuwo Country Lodge Viewpoint – A lodge on a hilltop at the northwest of town, with an infinity pool and terrace facing the Kaokoland mountains; the best spot for watching…
• Opuwo Market & Himba Crafts – An open-air market where locals buy and sell daily goods, grilled meat and handicrafts; you can buy Himba jewelry and ochre powder here.
• Otjikandero Himba Village – A Himba orphan village near Kamanjab, easy to reach and with English-speaking guides; a good stop on the way from Etosha to Opuwo.
• Ruacana Falls – A large waterfall on the Kunene River, about 700 m wide with a 120 m drop; it is spectacular when the rainy-season spillway releases water…
• Kunene River at Swartbooisdrif – River-bank woodland and rapids on the Kunene River, ideal for rafting and birdwatching, plus the Dorsland Trekkers Monument.
• Marienfluss Valley – A remote grassland valley in the northwest corner of Kaokoland, running down to the Kunene River, with vast fairy circles and Himba herder…
• Van Zyl's Pass – Namibia's most famous extreme 4x4 pass, dropping steeply from the Otjitanda Plateau to Marienfluss Valley and open only one way, downhill.

Where to eat

• Kaokoland Restaurant – A standard restaurant next to the central supermarket in Opuwo, serving pizza, pork chops, coffee, and cake. A reliable…
• Opuwo Country Lodge Restaurant – The à la carte restaurant of a hilltop lodge north of town, with a northwest-facing terrace where you can eat game stea…

Itineraries

• Kaokoland Himba & Kunene 4x4 Route – Drive north by 4x4 through Damaraland, Sesfontein, and Epupa Falls, ending with a traverse of Etosha from the west gate.