Etosha National Park

A self-drive safari park beside a vast white salt pan, where floodlit waterholes at night can show black rhino, lions and elephants in the same frame.

Etosha National Park lies in northern Namibia and covers about 22,000 sq km. At its centre is a white salt pan of roughly 4,800 sq km, surrounded by savanna and bushland dotted with dozens of natural springs and artificial waterholes, making it one of Africa’s best parks for self-drive wildlife viewing. Visits are usually split among three main camps: Okaukuejo in the southwest (near the southern Andersson’s Gate, where the floodlit waterhole often shows black rhino at night), Halali in the centre (the Moringa waterhole and a pan viewpoint), and Namutoni in the east (a white German-style fort, the Chudop and Klein Namutoni waterholes, and Fischer’s Pan). Olifantsrus, further west, sees few visitors. North and south of the park are private reserves such as Ongava and Onguma, where you can track rhino on foot and go on night drives. Best season: the dry season from May to October, when animals gather at waterholes; in the rainy season from November to April the landscape is green and there are many young animals, but wildlife is dispersed and it is hotter. Getting there: about 5 hours’ drive from Windhoek on the B1 to the southern gate. Roads inside the park are gravel but passable by an ordinary car, with a 60 km/h speed limit; gates open at sunrise and close at sunset. Suggested stay: 2–3 nights, crossing the park from west to east. Notes: you may not leave your vehicle except at camps and designated spots; park entry is charged per person per day plus a vehicle fee; in peak season, camp accommodation must be booked months ahead on the NWR website; there is a malaria risk in the rainy season.

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