Huzhou & Moganshan

China's benchmark for boutique guesthouse getaways: bamboo-sea villas and Naked Valley on Moganshan, plus Nanxun Ancient Town and Anji nearby. The top weekend escape in the Yangtze River Delta.

Moganshan lies in the west of Deqing County, Huzhou, Zhejiang, an offshoot of the Tianmu Mountains. Its main peak, Tashan, rises about 720 m, roughly 60 km from Hangzhou and 200 km from Shanghai. The name comes from Ganjiang and Moye, who forged their legendary swords here in the Spring and Autumn period. From the late Qing and early Republic era it became a summer refuge for Shanghai's expatriates and elite, leaving more than 200 Republic-era villas on the mountain. Hailed as the “No. 1 Mountain South of the Yangtze,” it is counted with Lushan, Beidaihe and Jigongshan as one of China's four great summer retreats. In 2007 South African Gao Tiancheng founded Naked Village at Sanjiuwu, at the foot of the mountain. Boutique guesthouses have since sprung up across the villages around Moganshan Town, and “Moganshan guesthouse” has become shorthand for rural getaways in China. There are three main areas to explore. First, the Moganshan Scenic Area (Sword Pool, Reed Pond, the Wuling Village villa cluster and Baiyun Villa on the summit, plus former residences of Chiang Kai-shek and Mao Zedong), good for hiking, escaping the heat and walking through bamboo forest. Second, Moganshan Town and Yucun at the foot of the mountain (a Republic-style street, guesthouse clusters, cycling paths, cafés and the Discovery Adventure base). Third, the wider Huzhou area: Nanxun Ancient Town (about 70 km from Moganshan), Xiazhuhu Wetland, Xinshi Ancient Town, and Anji's Great Bamboo Sea and Cloud Prairie, which can be combined into a 2–3-day Huzhou itinerary. The climate is subtropical monsoon. April–June is best for fresh green bamboo, mountain flowers and cycling. July–August is peak summer season, when the mountain is 5–7°C cooler than Hangzhou and guesthouse prices double. September–November brings crisp autumn days with ginkgo and maple colors. Winter is chilly, but guesthouses offer fireplaces and hot springs, and Christmas and New Year are a minor peak. March and the rainy season (mid to late June) mean fewer people and lower prices. Getting there: take a high-speed train from Hangzhou East or Shanghai Hongqiao to Deqing Station (about 20 minutes from Hangzhou, about 1 hour from Shanghai). From there it is about 30 minutes to Moganshan Town by tourist bus or taxi. Driving is the most convenient option (about 1 hour from Hangzhou, about 2.5 hours from Shanghai), and most guesthouses have parking. We suggest 2 days/1 night or 3 days/2 nights: arrive at your guesthouse on day one, then explore Yucun and cycle; spend day two in the Moganshan Scenic Area; and on day three head to Nanxun or Anji. Tips: Moganshan Scenic Area tickets cost about CNY 80. In peak season, self-drivers must switch to a scenic-area shuttle at the foot of the mountain or book ahead to drive up. Guesthouses are the heart of the experience, so book several weeks ahead in peak season; prices range from CNY 300 to 3,000. The bamboo forests are full of mosquitoes, so bring repellent in summer. The mountain roads are winding, so bring medication if you get carsick. Deqing specialties include Mogan Huangya tea, dried bamboo shoots and fish-head hotpot, and the cafés and bakeries of Yucun are popular photo stops.

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