Miranda (Southern Pantanal)

Gateway to the South Pantanal, where eco-farm lodges offer safaris, horseback riding, and boating, with chances to track jaguars, giant otters, and hyacinth macaws.

Miranda is a small town in the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, about 200 km west of the state capital Campo Grande. It is the main gateway to the South Pantanal, the wetlands around Miranda, Aquidauana, and Nioaque. The Pantanal is the world's largest tropical wetland. Compared with the Northern Pantanal along the Transpantaneira Highway, the South is dominated by privately run ecological farms. Visitors stay at large lodges on working cattle ranches and take open-vehicle safaris, hikes, horseback rides, boat trips, canoe outings, and night wildlife drives. The goal is to see jaguars, giant otters, hyacinth macaws, giant anteaters, capybaras, and countless caimans and waterbirds.

Key destinations include the Caiman Ecological Refuge, famous for its jaguar project; Fazenda São Francisco, which offers day trips; the Passo do Lontra lodge area centered on the Miranda River; and the Pantanal Park Road, which runs north deep into the wetlands.

In the dry season, Jul–Oct, animals gather around the remaining water holes and are easiest to see, but it is hot and occasionally smoky. In the rainy season, Nov–Mar, the wetlands flood and turn lush green. This is the best time for boating, but some roads are cut off and mosquitoes are plentiful.

Getting there: fly into Campo Grande, then take a bus or lodge transfer for about 3 hours to Miranda. You can also come from Bonito (about 2.5 hours) or Corumbá. Most farms require booking an all-inclusive package with meals. Plan to stay 3–4 nights, and combine the trip with clear-water snorkeling in Bonito for a one-week itinerary. Pack long sleeves, insect repellent, binoculars, and sun protection.

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Where to eat